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Archive for February, 2009

Your Home and Your Health – Avoid Carbon Monoxide Hazards

 What is carbon monoxide?  Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless and toxic gas.  It is often called the “silent killer” because it is impossible to see, taste or smell the toxic fumes.  Unfortunately, hundreds of people accidentally die from carbon monoxide poisoning each year.  However, there are several things you can do as a homeowner to protect your family.

1) Winter is upon us here in Minnesota.  If you live in a colder climate like Rochester MN, it is important to clear snow drifts away from exhaust vents. 
2) Open flues when wood fireplaces are in use. 
3) Do not idle the car inside the garage.
4) Keep gas appliances properly adjusted.
5) Have your furnace maintained by a trained professional on a yearly basis.
6) Install approved and certified carbon monoxide detectors.

Did you know?  There is a new Minnesota law that has been enacted in order to help prevent carbon monoxide tragedies from occurring.  The statute requires a carbon monoxide alarm be installed within 10 feet of each room lawfully used for sleeping purposes in every single-family dwelling.  This not only includes new construction properties but existing homes as well. 

What does this mean for home buyers?  When purchasing a home, your home inspector will verify whether the home is properly equipped with the CO detectors as specified by the law.  If the detectors are missing, you can request the seller comply with the law and have the detectors installed appropriately before the closing.

What does this mean for home sellers?  You have a legal obligation to equip the home you are selling with the proper number of detectors in the appropriate areas.  It is not sufficient for seller’s to purely count on disclosure as a way to get around having the additional cost of purchasing the detectors.  It is imperative for sellers to be proactive due to the potential damage that could occur from not having the adequate number of detectors.  It’s going to come up on a home inspection report, so you might as well get them installed.   As a bonus, you are protecting your own family!

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Heating, Inspectors Blog

Rochester MN Home Inspection Reveals Why Your Windows Fog Up.

It’s hard to believe, but a family of four can generate up to 18 gallons of water in the form of humidity inside a home in a week? Cooking, showering, washing and drying clothes, and even breathing, creates a lot of water and it has to go somewhere.

Your windows are usually the first place you will see evidence of moisture resulting from high humidity in a home.  Here in the Rochester MN area, the colder it is outside during the winter, the more evident high humidity will be.  This does not mean there’s a problem with your windows. The majority of window condensation simply indicates that your home needs increased ventilation to lower the amount of moisture in the air or you need to reduce the sources of the humidity.  I did a home inspection on a home recently where there was a concern with the sky lights and moisture.  Turns out that the humidifier has mal functioned and the humidity was near 60%.  The humidifier was disabled, and within a day or so, the windows dried up.

Older homes tend to have more cracks in their construction, allowing “natural” air infiltration into the home and help reduce moisture.  Newer homes, however, are much tighter and therefore tend to trap moisture in. this is helpful from an energy efficiency standpoint, but contributes to condensation and creates the potential for condensation on surfaces that are cooler than the dew point.

Humidity is generated by cooking food, running the dishwasher, filling the sink with hot water, showers, hot tubs, washers and indoor-vented dryers, basements and crawl spaces that channel dampness from the ground into the home, breathing and perspiration.

Other than these perpetual sources of moisture, wood, plaster and other building materials in a new home will absorb moisture during humid summers and gradually release it after the first few weeks of heating your home in the fall.

Can this damage my windows?
The occasional moisture condensation on the glass after a hot shower, or when steaming food on the stove usually aren’t a problem.  However, if your windows are “sweating” without cause or for long periods of time, your windows could become damaged. Wood frames and sash can warp and become difficult to operate. Paint or other finishes may peel or become discolored. Other areas of the home could also be damaged, such as insulation, exterior siding and drywall.

What Can I Do?
Decrease the amount of moisture in the air that can condensate on windows is the first step.  You may have to add ventilation, eliminate sources of humidity or remove humidity from the air after it’s been generated. To lower the humidity in your home, you need to increase ventilation and decrease the sources of moisture.

  •  Run exhaust fans in the bathroom during a shower, or in the kitchen while cooking.
  • Take shorter showers and install water-restricting faucets – you’ll lower your humidity and your water bill.
  • Use the microwave, slow cooker, or outdoor grill more frequently.
  • Check and reroute drainage away from your home to minimize the moisture in and around the basement and foundation.
  • Run a dehumidifier in basements and other damp areas.
  • Turn off your furnace humidifier or other home humidifier.
  • Open drapes and blinds to allow warm house air to circulate across the windows.

Are All Windows Affected by Condensation?
Condensation will appear on any type of window, if a home has high humidity. Vinyl, wood or aluminum windows, regardless of manufacturer, will have some condensation if the air is humid.

 One component in standard dual-pane glass, or insulated glass, can help minimize condensation. The adhesive spacer that bonds together the two panes can help reduce condensation if it is comprised of a non-metal material. Traditionally these spacers have been made of stainless steel or aluminum, both of which conduct heat and cold readily. A non-metal spacer minimizes conductivity and, in turn, reduces condensation. “The non-metal, spacer system also improves the energy efficiency of windows while reducing condensation.  The less metal a window has, the less it will conduct heat and cold, the less condensation will appear on the glass, and the more energy efficient it will be

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Inspectors Blog, Interior, Monthly Home Tip

Rochester MN Home Inspector Recommends Heating System Tune Up

The winter heating season is upon us here in RochesterMN area.  When doing a home inspection and analyzing the heating system, I try to determine is a home’s forced air heating system’s age.   If it is an older unit I suggest you have a professional heating contractor service it every year.  If you furnace is newer, every couple of years should suffice.  This is your best protection against carbon monoxide dangers and heating problems. Routine service will also ensure peak efficiency to save you operating costs.

A good service and inspection costs about $80-$120 and should include a complete cleaning, safety check, and tuning.

The service contractor should:

  • clean the burner and heat exchanger, and inspect for cracks.
  • tune the burners for proper combustion.
  • perform a carbon monoxide test in the heat exchanger.
  • check the vent pipe and draft diverter.
  • inspect the chimney for obstructions and draft.
  • check vent pipes for proper clearance and materials.
  • test fan controls and safety controls.
  • check the thermostat.
  • run the furnace through a complete cycle.
  • check flame roll-out.
  • check gas pressure (if appropriate for your furnace).
  • clean and adjust the pilot light assembly.
  • inspect gas fittings and repair any leaks.
  • lubricate the fan and motor.
  • check belt condition and tension.
  • service the filter.
  • clean the fan and housing if excessive dirt has accumulated.

Replacing parts or cleaning extensively will cost extra.

You should have a basic understanding of how the system works, so if you aren’t clear on what is covered during the home inspection, ask the service contractor to explain the basics. You should routinely service the filter and lubricate the fan and motor a second time during the heating season. You should also inspect the flue connection to the chimney.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Heating, Inspectors Blog, Monthly Home Tip

Rochester MN Home Inspection Company Shares Sump Pump Basics

Sump Pump

The sump pump protects your home from groundwater forcing its way down through the soil into that hole in the ground we call a basement.  A drain tile system below the basement floor will channel water into the sump pump basket.  When the water level hits the float in the sump basket, the sump pump lifts this water to the surface outside or into an underground storm sewer pipe that drains away from your home.

The sump pump and drainage system is separate from the sanitary sewer system that drains waste water from your home to the septic system or to a sanitary sewer treatment plant.  Your sump pump should not discharge to the sanitary sewer.

During the home inspection, a home inspector will look for indication of water in the sump basket, and will test that the sump pump operates.  Test your sump pump every few months. Start the pump by adding water to the sump basket or by lifting the float. The pump should start when the water is 8 to 12 inches below the basement floor slab. The water in the sump basket should be clear, without roots or debris. Watch to be sure the pump removes water from the crock.

The pump may have a float on the end of a rod or wire. Be sure the float operates easily and can’t rub against the sump basket or the cover. If the float sticks, the pump will not run, and your basement could have some flooding.

If the pump is older and worn, rusty, or noisy, it should be replaced. The pump should be securely mounted in the sump basket. The power supply should be from an outlet, not an extension cord, and the plug should be securely fastened to the outlet.

If the pump runs more than several times per day or runs often during heavy rain, you should have a spare pump or even a second pump mounted in the sump basket. The second pump could have a float set for a higher water level so that the second pump only runs if the first pump fails. If you live in an area in Southeastern MN where the electrical power fails during storms, I would consider a battery backup for the pump system.

You might also want to consider installing an alarm that will alert you if the sump pump fails. This could save considerable damage from flooding that could result from this failure. Options range from expensive home alarm systems to a simple battery-operated water alarm. You can pick up a water alarm at your locat building supply center.

The Water Detector is a palm-sized unit operated by a 9-volt battery. When in contact with water, it continuously emits an alarm for up to 72 hours. The unit will float and continue to sound an alarm during a flood.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Basement, Inspectors Blog, Plumbing

Rochester MN Home Inspector Reveals Equity-Building DIY Projects

Taking on a few simple do-it-yourself projects to increase the value and appearance of your home can make a big difference when it comes time to sell.  A home inspection should result in fewer issues that need to be dealt with on a properly maintained home.   Not only can you make your house stand out, you can receive more money from the sale, which can be used to offset other projects on your wish list.

While do-it yourself projects can often seem like a daunting task, they really don’t have to be.  With a little planning and making sure you have the right tools, your home upgrades can be quick and affordable.

If you don’t have a tool you need for your do-it yourself project, you can rent most anything you need.  Renting tools can help to keep your costs down. Renting gives you access to equipment that is otherwise too expensive to purchase. Rental stores are also a great place for free expert advice about tools, how to use them correctly and how to best complete your project.

Employees at rental stores can provide you with valuable insight on using the tools and equipment you will need to successfully complete your projects.  They have gone through extensive training on how to use the tools, and they often can provide you with some great ideas about how to save time and money in your undertaking.

A small investment can go a long way. Use these five projects as a starting point to help build more equity in your home.

1. Power wash the exterior of your home. Give the exterior of your home a facelift and prevent long term damage. You can remove dirt, mildew, moss and other blemishes from vinyl siding with a power washer. The power washer can also be used to remove grunge from your front porch, garage, driveway, shed, fence and deck. But be sure to have someone at your rental store show you how to use the machine safely. A pressure washer is so powerful that it can damage property if used incorrectly.

2. Groom your lawn.  A beautiful lawn can dramatically improve your curb appeal and set your home apart for a great first impression.  Every lawn has different needs, but any lawn can use a little clean up. Rent a dethatcher, or power rake, to remove the undesirable debris build-up of grass clippings, leaves and stems interwoven in the grass. This allows water and fertilizer to penetrate the roots for healthier lawn. To speed up grass growth, rent an aerator.  An aerator pokes holes in the soil to allow air, nutrients and moisture into the grass’ root system. Fertilize after you aerate and the grass will quickly cover the tracks left by the aerator.

3. Revamp your bathrooms. These little rooms can make a big negative impact. And people have the impression they are expensive to fix. But replacing broken tiles can be very simple. Remove the surrounding grout and gently tap away pieces of the offending tile. Use tile nippers to shape your new tile to fit. Make sure to as the folks at the rental store how to use the nipper so that your project is a success.

4. Update your kitchen. Kitchens can be the room that takes the most wear and tear. Some simple updates can help to make your kitchen look like new. Remove dated and dirty wallpaper. With the right tools, such as a steamer, the paper often just peels off. This machine has a steam tank and a plate that emits vapor as you hold it to the wall, which usually loosens even the stickiest paper in about two or three minutes. Once you have removed the wallpaper, choosing a new color and repaint.

5. Go deeper than a surface cleaning for floors. The law of gravity implies that all dirt will eventually end up on the floor. Carpets can hide as much as 10 times their own weight in soil and dirt. Hot-water extraction using a rented portable carpet extractor is the best method to remove embedded soil to thoroughly clean the carpet to get an enhanced appearance. Hardwood floors require a bit more work and heavy duty commercial equipment.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Inspectors Blog, Monthly Home Tip

Home Inspection Sniffs Out Burning Odor From Electrical Fixture

 If a light fixture gives off a burning smell, disconnect the fixture until you have determined the source of the odor. Overheating electrical wires and devices often emit a burning smell. Don’t use the fixture again until a professional has inspected and repaired it. A fluorescent fixture may have a ballast that has failed and is spilling tar. For typical incandescent light fixtures, the burning smell may occur if you’re using an oversized bulb. Check the rating of the fixture and the wattage of the bulb. The rating will be inside the fixture, near the bulb. Never exceed the wattage recommended. You might also have a loose electrical connection at the splice or in the outlet box, or a loose screw or lamp base. A loose connection can create excessive resistance to electrical flow, and the resistance causes heat. Excessive heat makes metal connections expand and contract, loosening them further. This heat can damage insulation and even start a fire. Sometimes, when such excessive heat melts plastic, the problem area emits a misleading “dead animal” smell. If you notice any strong smells near outlets, electrical boxes, or light fixtures, they may be due to an electrical problem. Call an electrician to evaluate and fix the problem. In the meantime, do not use electrical power in that area.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Electrical, Inspectors Blog, Monthly Home Tip

Rochester MN Home Inspection Company Discusses Air Conditioner Start Up

 Central Air Conditioning should never be operated in cold weather. This can cause serious damage to the compressor unit. You should not use your central air conditioner unless the outdoor temperature has been above 65 degrees for at least 24 hours. Remember to uncover the unit if it has been covered over the winter months. At the start of the cooling season, when you are about to start using the air conditioning unit, you need to make sure that the power is on for a minimum of 24 hours. The thermostat should be switched off, and left off for at least 24 hours before operating the Air Conditioning Unit. Most condensing units have a compressor crank case heater that allows a heater to warm the crank case lubricant. When the compressor crank case is cold, the coolant can be partially absorbed into the lubricant. This will result in frothing of the lubricant, and can cause undue wear on bearings, etc. Turning on power to the unit at least 24 hours before use will allow for the crank case lubricant to heat up and will release any coolant absorption from the lubricant. After a minimum of 24 hours, the unit can be run safely. so, the net is… Just make sure that the power to the air conditioning unit is on at least 24 hours prior to using the air conditioning.

Home Inspector Rochester MN. HomePro Home Inspections.  Southeastern, MN. Rick Erickson, 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Air Conditioning, Inspectors Blog, Monthly Home Tip

Rochester MN Home Inspector Shares How To Quiet A Squeaky Floor

Floor squeaks are caused by loose floorboards and framing members that move and rub against each other as you walk across the floor. The noise comes from wood rubbing on wood or wood rubbing on nails. It’s most common in winter when homes dry out during the heating season. As wood dries, it shrinks, and gaps open up. A common 1 by 6 could shrink as much as 1/16 inch across its 6-inch width in going from damp summer conditions to dry winter heating conditions.

If you have the access, you can work on your floor from the basement below. When the squeaks occur, have someone walk on the offending floor while you listen for squeaks and inspect the area  for movement in the basement. Mark the problem areas.

If you can reach the joists and subflooring in the squeaking area, your best fix is to “sister” a 2 by 4 or 2 by 6 to the side of the joist and tight against the sub-floor. “Sister” is a carpentry term meaning that the 2 by 4 is parallel to the joist with the wide, flat surfaces together.

Use a short length–18 to 36 inches–and liberally apply construction adhesive to two adjacent 90-degree sides. Construction adhesive is dispensed from a caulking gun and has a caulk-like consistency. You then attach this board to the joist and the subflooring with several screws or nails driven into the joist at an angle.

The construction adhesive will effectively weld the wood to the joist and the subfloor, preventing movement. The adhesive fills voids and will not release as the wood shrinks and moves. Construction adhesive is the key–it will not shrink as it cures. Use as many short lengths as you need to stop the movement and squeaks.

Although many home improvement books recommend driving small shims between the joists and floorboards, I think this can complicate the problem. How far do you drive the shims into the gap? If you drive them in too far, you can loosen the subfloor.

Two products on the market work well to eliminate floor squeaks. Squeak-Relief from Accuset Tool Co., Troy, MI, provides a small aluminum bracket and specially sized screws. The bracket takes the place of the 2 by 4. It effectively secures the floor to the bracket and the joist.

Squeek No More from O’Berry Enterprises, Crystal Lake, IL, works from above the squeak through carpeting or hardwood flooring. It is a special bracket that holds and drives a long notched screw. Once driven into the offending area, the screw disappears. The bracket ensures that the screw is driven to the right depth. Then you use the bracket to break off the head and shank of the screw just below the wood. If you use this on a finished wood floor, it will create a tiny hole that should be patched with wood putty.

Home Inspector Rochester MN. HomePro Home Inspections.  Southeastern, MN. Rick Erickson, 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Inspectors Blog, Interior, Monthly Home Tip

Rochester MN Home Inspector Recommends Regular Furnace Filter Maintenence

How often should you change the filter on the furnace?  Whenever it’s dirty.  And although it sounds a little silly, some of better filters get dirty more quickly and need to be changed more often.

A standard cheap (about $1) fiberglass air filter should be checked once a month and changed when it shows visible dirt. You also need to check the filter when running the central air conditioner, because air circulates through the furnace and the filter.

This home inspector recommends you  do a little research befor buying a furnace filter.  You will have to purchace a filter that meets your family needs.   Read the labels-some are more efficient than others. Price will vary from about $3 to $15. These filters will trap much more dirt and smaller particles of dirt. They need to be changed more often because they do a better job of trapping dirt.

The next level up from standard throw-away filters are washable filters and electrostatic washable filters. Washable foam filters work quite well if coated with a special sticky spray like Filter Coat. Electrostatic filters are relatively expensive (about $100), but they do trap dirt well.

A better filter is the 6-inch-thick pleated paper filter. Air is forced through a long accordion of filter paper. Fine holes in the paper trap small particles of dirt. The large surface area limits pressure loss in the heating system. A special frame needs to be installed in the duct work, and the filter costs about $25, but it will last one or two years.

The top of the line is an electronic filter that charges metal plates in the air stream and attracts dust. This is the only type of filter that actually removes smoke particles from the air. This filter costs about $700 installed. Filter plates must be washed monthly in the dishwasher or by hand with soapy water.

I consider the pleated paper filters a good investment. The more expensive electronic filters are great for people with allergies or sensitivity to dust.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Heating, Inspectors Blog, Monthly Home Tip

Vanessa N, Rochester, MN

Very helpful to us as first time home buyers.  Rick took the time to explain his home inspectors findings and answer any questions we had.  Very professional.  We were overall very satisfied.

Posted on Tuesday, February 24th, 2009.
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Posted in Client Feedback

Thank You for taking the time to go over the report and for the final walk through to go over all the details in the home inspection report.  We would recommend your home inspectors services to others.

Matt & Angela P. Kasson, MN

Thank you so much for the thorough job!  Your home inspection report and answers were fantastic.  We are very confident that we are getting a “solid” home.  We will definately refer you to our friends and family.

John & Deanna I. Rochester, MN

We were very pleased with the thoroughness of your home inspection and the fee charged for your services.

Bill & Mary S. Rochester, MN

Call and schedule your inspection today 507.202.8942