This video is showing mold growth and staining in a split level basement ledge of the exterior wall.  The basement was finished off about a year ago, with the mold and staining starting within the last two months.  The owner pointed out this problem during the home inspection and asked me if I could help to figure out the cause. This wall was the only one in the basement that had this problem.  All other areas were dry at the time of the home inspection.
What I had found was on the exterior of the home, the bottom of the siding was right at the top of the block/base plate junction.  With all of the rain and driving winds we had had recently, I believe that water was being driven into the joint at the top of the wall, resulting in saturation of the wood. The water was wicking up through the oak shelf, which was attached to the base plate,  thus causing the staining and mold growth.
For some reason, the siding on this side of the home was not installed low enough to properly overlap the masonry block/plate joint.  The siding was installed properly on the remaining exterior walls.
My recommendation to the homeowner was to have a siding contractor extend the siding down so that it properly overlapped the masonry block.  I also recommended that the oak shelf be removed, the area inspected for moisture issues, necessary repairs be made.
Home Inspectors, HomePro Home Inspections. Rick Erickson, Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942 http://www.homepro-inspection.com

In this HomePro home inspector video you will see an example of mold in a basement of a relatively new home. The mold and high moisture was confined to the surface of the front wall of the basement. As I arrived at this home inspection I noticed that there was a large pond built into the landscaping next to the front wall, as well as settling and poor soil slope. These conditions resulted in the wet basement walls. The recommendation to the homeowner was to properly landscape the front of the home to allow for water to flow away from the home. In addition, I recommended that they have professional mold remediation and testing done to resolve the issue.

If you enjoyed my home inspectors video, and would like to see more like it, please leave a comment.

Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rick Erickson, Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942 http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Mold revealed on garage ceiling

Your home inspector has turned up mold in your home and now you have questions. Is it possible for me to get rid of it, or do you need to call in a professional mold remediation company? 

There are situations where you can remediate, or halt the mold growth on your own.  Remediation is removal of contaminated and/or hazardous materials from your home.  If the problem is small, a good dousing of bleach should stop the mold infestation.  If the invasion is less than ten square feet, you can probably attack the problem on your own and do the repairs. 

There is one thing to remember though. Even though bleach can kill the mold, once the spore is dead it can still release harmful toxins into the air of your home. You must also consider that the fumes in bleach chloride are not the healthiest things for your lungs either.  The bleach you buy in the stores is watered down.  It has to be or it would be a public hazard to handle. And what does mold like? You guessed it, water.  While bleach can do some good, it is not the most reliable method of mold remediation. 

Antibacterial products are effective deterrent to mold growth. They will retard mold growth, but will not prevent dried (even dead) mold spores form floating in the air, releasing toxins and causing health problems in some people. However, once the mold and its’ source are removed, antibacterial gels can be a good deterrent to future mold infestations. 

So, how do you know if you got it all? Mold and mildew can seep into microscopic cracks and porous materials.  There are a lot of places in your house that are porous – concrete slabs, drywall, wood and brick, etc.   It may be worth it to call in a professional who handle this stuff on a daily basis. 

Both the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Center of Disease Control (CDC)  have explicit standards and instructions on how to remove mold.  A respirator  ( N-95 dust mask) should be worn at all times in the presence of mold per the EPA.  If the mold is spread over 30 square feet, the regulations state that you have a choice whether to call in a professional or to let a cleaning or maintenance company handle the job. More than 30 square feet and it is always best to contact a professional mold remediation company. 

Not only do you have to stop the mold, you also have to stop the entrance of moisture into your home. If you can keep the mold from growing back, your battle is won. The EPA has a list of registered chemicals and even biodegradable substances specifically for mold remediation . These are contained in anti-bacterial sealants that professionals must registered to handle and trained to use.  The professional mold remediation technician may need to use methods of sanding or other abrasive techniques to help the sealant stick.  Let them. You should be wary of companies that just want to spray a filmy substance before the moldy or dirt laden surfaces are cleaned and treated.  There are several tings to consider when dealing with mold:  Invasive treatment v/s non-invasive treatment. Treat or tear it all out. As a home owner, how would you know what is best?  It may be in your best interest to contact a local mold remediation company.

So how do you find a reputable mold remediator?  Visit their web site.  Make sure they are using EPA approved equipment, chemicals and HEPA filtration devices. Check their permits and references. Check for nationally recognized accreditations or associations.  Also keep in mind that with all the scare out there pertaining to mold in homes, there are some flim-flam artists out there ready to prey on worried home owners.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

You realize you have a basement leak!  Now What? 

Sometimes it can seem like keeping your basement dry is a never ending battle, but, keeping your basement dry may not be as hard as you think. There are some simple steps you can take that will keep your basement dry and comfortable.

While it may sound like a little thing, as a home inspector I occasionally come across outdoor water spigots that were leaking.  Even what you may consider a slight drip can develop into several gallons of water per day, running down the foundation wall.  A simple fix could have prevented the problem. 

Gutters and downspouts need to be kept clear of all debris.  Check them for any damage that would prevent water from flowing properly through them.  Rainwater spilling out on a concentrated area can create and erode low places in your grade and allow water to concentrate against your foundation wall and in time can deteriorate the concrete or concrete block joints.  It will also start seeping through cracks in your basement wall and cause a basement leak.

Where the water exits at the bottom of the downspout is a critical area. It must be allowed to flow away from the foundation. This can consist of a simple splash block or a drain pipe extension as needed.

Make sure the grade around your house slopes away your foundation wall. Sometimes that is not an easy task, but is a must to keep the drainage water away from the foundation. Any low areas found next to your foundation should be filled and graded away from your foundation. 

Fix any plumbing leaks as they happen. This may seem like a no-brainer task, but in some cases, these leaks are really hard to notice. Discoloration of flooring is sometimes the only indication of a possible leak.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

When a basement wall starts to crack, and those cracks open up horizontally, it can be a sign that the wall is being pushed inward.  Many times the horizontal cracks will line up with the frost line in the outside soil. The video from this home inspection will show you these cracks in a basement wall.

 It’s no secret that the soil freezes in the winter time here in Rochester MN.  The frost expands the soil and presses against the wall, causing a lateral load. This lateral load can cause the wall to bow inward.  Unstable soils, expansive clay, compressible, or improperly compacted soil can be a basement’s worst enemy.  

 Fortunately it is possible to rescue a bowed basement wall.  There are companies in the Rochester area that can install an anchor system that can stabilize and pull bowed walls back into place.  After a careful inspection and analysis, these companies can design a system that will resolve the problem for a fraction of the cost of total replacement.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Empty basement sump basket

Even if you are not in a flood zone, it is wise to invest in a sump pump.  Anyone remember the summer of 2007 when we had about 13 inches of rain in a day?  A lot of people in the Rochester and Southeastern MN area like to tell the home inspector that “We have never had a water problem in this basement … except that one time in 2007 when we had all that rain.”  Water damage can happen to any home without warning, ruining electronics, heirlooms, flooring and anything else you may have in your basement. 

When we have a major storm, or a heavy snow melt the ground gets saturated, and water can enter your home.  A sump pump is easy to install and helps to prevent water back up.  During the home inspection process I see a lot of homes that have sump baskets that do not have a pump installed.  In newer homes, there is typically an outlet and sometimes the discharge pipe installed, but no pump.  Typically I recommend to people that it would be a good idea to install a sump pump.

Although they cost more, a sump pump system with a battery back up provides another level of protection.  As we saw in 2007 many homes lost power, with the saturation we had, sump baskets with sump pumps backed up, but with no power, no pump.  Providing for water protection in your home is a minor investment compared the extensive damage that can occur to your property and possessions. 

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

Sump Pump

The sump pump protects your home from groundwater forcing its way down through the soil into that hole in the ground we call a basement.  A drain tile system below the basement floor will channel water into the sump pump basket.  When the water level hits the float in the sump basket, the sump pump lifts this water to the surface outside or into an underground storm sewer pipe that drains away from your home.

The sump pump and drainage system is separate from the sanitary sewer system that drains waste water from your home to the septic system or to a sanitary sewer treatment plant.  Your sump pump should not discharge to the sanitary sewer.

During the home inspection, a home inspector will look for indication of water in the sump basket, and will test that the sump pump operates.  Test your sump pump every few months. Start the pump by adding water to the sump basket or by lifting the float. The pump should start when the water is 8 to 12 inches below the basement floor slab. The water in the sump basket should be clear, without roots or debris. Watch to be sure the pump removes water from the crock.

The pump may have a float on the end of a rod or wire. Be sure the float operates easily and can’t rub against the sump basket or the cover. If the float sticks, the pump will not run, and your basement could have some flooding.

If the pump is older and worn, rusty, or noisy, it should be replaced. The pump should be securely mounted in the sump basket. The power supply should be from an outlet, not an extension cord, and the plug should be securely fastened to the outlet.

If the pump runs more than several times per day or runs often during heavy rain, you should have a spare pump or even a second pump mounted in the sump basket. The second pump could have a float set for a higher water level so that the second pump only runs if the first pump fails. If you live in an area in Southeastern MN where the electrical power fails during storms, I would consider a battery backup for the pump system.

You might also want to consider installing an alarm that will alert you if the sump pump fails. This could save considerable damage from flooding that could result from this failure. Options range from expensive home alarm systems to a simple battery-operated water alarm. You can pick up a water alarm at your locat building supply center.

The Water Detector is a palm-sized unit operated by a 9-volt battery. When in contact with water, it continuously emits an alarm for up to 72 hours. The unit will float and continue to sound an alarm during a flood.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester MN, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com