Exterior Components

Mudjacking a Settled Slab

Mudjacking a Concrete Slab

If your driveway, sidewalk or patio has a large area of concrete that has settled unevenly and now has a pitch towards your home foundation and threatens to flow rain water towards the basement, you may have a candidate for mudjacking.

Mudjacking is a process that utilizes hydraulic pressure to raise or level concrete slabs and sidewalks.  A series of holes approximately 2 inch holes are drilled through the slab a pre determined locations.  A mixture of water, ground stone and cement is pumped through the holes with a special machine.  The stiff mud that is pumped under the slab will lift it to the desired location or slope. 

If you have a slab that is in relatively good condition with few cracks, mudjacking can be a more cost effective way of correcting the problem than replacing the slab.  Done correctly, the repair will last for years


Bees In The Basement

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Here’s another good reason you should make sure all exterior openings are sealed.  I usually discuss with my clients the importance of making sure that all exterior openings are sealed so that moisture and insects can not infiltrate. 

This home had been sitting empty for quite a while.  The bees found a way in through a disconnected dryer vent and built quite a large nest.  Lucky for me, someone has smoke bombed the place and killed all of the bees…. there were hundreds of dead bees throughout the home, mainly in the basement.   

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942


A Little Caulk Can Go a Long Way

Energy leakage and water damage are a constant threat to homeowners.  Simple caulking and insulating of leaks and openings can help to reduce energy loss by up to a third.

As I suggest during the process of a home inspection, don’t buy the cheap caulk.  Buy a good quality caulk that will last a lifetime.  There are several products available at your local Rochester and Southeastern MN hardware or home supply store. 

Once a year do a complete inspection of your home exterior for potential leaks or openings.  Areas around windows, doors, and utility entry points are the first place to look.  Home Owners that take the time to protect their homes can increase resale value and enjoy low maintenance exteriors.  Preventative measures now rather than later can eliminate big repair bills in the future.  If you keep at it, you can stay ahead of mother nature.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942


Seal Your Home’s Windows

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A yearly inspection of the windows in your home can insure that the weather stripping has not been damaged and is functioning properly.  We all know how hard the wind can blow in our Southeastern MN winters.  Cold air can enter through even the smallest of gaps.  Repair damaged weathers tripping or seal small gaps with a quality silicone sealant.  On draftier windows you may choose to seal them with shrink wrap film to help save on energy usage.

Drafts can be located on windy days by slowly moving a lit candle or butane lighter near the window.  An air leak will cause the flame to flutter and help you to locate leaks that need to be sealed.  Make sure all flammable materials are out of the way so that you don’t accidently start a fire.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942


Discouraging Woodpeckers from Pecking Cedar Siding

Woodpecker damage

 Homeowners in rural Southeastern Minnesota sometimes find that woodpeckers go after their cedar siding-sometimes pecking through to the insulation. Why do they do this, and how can you discourage them?

Woodpeckers are great at reducing the bug population.  The problem with these birds is that they peck at wood to find bugs beneath the surface of woos, and sometimes the wood they peck at is your cedar siding.  The holes they make and leave behind attract more bug “residents”.  The birds also peck loudly to define their territory.

Woodpeckers are a protected bird in many areas including cities like Rochester, so destroying them is not an option.  There are 2 commonly used methods to deter woodpeckers from making holes in your siding.

First, you may try scaring them away with something that moves or makes noise such as a wind sock or aluminum pie tins hung from fishing lines. Strips of thin black plastic, 3 inches wide and 3 feet long may also work.

Second, distract the woodpecker from the problem area by fastening a block of suet (in a wire basket) to the siding. The woodpeckers love it and they stop bothering the siding.

Rick Erickson, HomePro Home Inspections, Serving Rochester and Southeastern, MN.  507-202-8942


Renewing Rusty Wrought Iron Railings

Renewing the finish of rusty wrought iron railings can be easy and a fairly simple do it yourself project to complete.  Here in Southeastern Minnesota the weather can be harsh causing many wrought iron railings to rust after years of exposure to the elements. If you are planning to repaint your railings you will need to remove the rust first.  You can try a product like Rust-Oleum  Rust Reformer to help neutralize the corrosion process.

Before repainting, however, you will need to remove the flaking paint and rust. Be careful  not to go all the way down to bare metal. Using the Rust Reformer eliminates the need to remove rust down to bare metal. A wire brush or abrasive pad works well.  To make the job go a little faster and easier you can use a round wire brush attached to a drill. After removing the surface rust, clean the surface with a detergent and water to remove oil, grease, and dirt.  Let it dry completely.  Apply the milky white Reformer with a brush or pad. The product will dry to a black finish in about 15 minutes.

 To finish the process, wait a minimum of four hours, then apply an oil based enamel paint. It is recommended to use oil based enamel instead of latex paint on your exterior wrought iron metal. Using oil based enamel paint will provide a good extension to your maintenance schedule. Some products, including Rust Reformer, suggest applying several coats of reformer for a final flat black finish

Rick Erickson, HomePro Home Inspections, Serving Rochester and Southeastern, MN.  507-202-8942


Cleaning Oil Stains from Concrete Flooring

Removing Oil stains from your concrete flooring can be easy. You can use commercial cleaners, a strong detergent, or dry Portland cement to remove them. Some products you may already have in your own home, other products may need to be purchased from your local Rochester or Southeastern MN hardware or automotive store.

Commercial cleaners that are labeled for use as driveway or cement cleaners are available at most hardware or automotive stores. These are usually solvent-based and require you to scrub the solvent into the oil stain. . Follow all directions on the product. 

You may wish to use a product that can be washed off with water. Most strong detergents will remove oil stains. Trying a slightly diluted liquid detergent  is recommended. Other detergent cleaners that work well include Spic and Span, Soilax, and Mex. A strong detergent such as TSP can also remove most oil stains if applied with a stiff scrub brush. After applying the detergent, scrub the spot several times and rinse with water. For tough stains we recommend letting the detergent solution soak into the stain for several hours, scrubbing every so often, and then rinsing. Let the cleaner do the work. You may need to try several applications if the stain remains.

 You can also pour dry Portland cement or hydraulic cement on the oil stain.  Rub the cement in with a broom, brush, or even your shoe and let it stand overnight. The cement will draw the oil out of the concrete. Simply sweep up the residue and repeat as necessary until the stain is no longer visible. If the stain remains, you can dampen the powder after sweeping. The cement will bond with the surface to freshen the appearance. Use Eyewear protection and cover your skin when working with cement. The fine powder can cause damage. 

Take all safety precautions when using any of the cleaners described above as they can contain strong chemicals.

 Rick Erickson, HomePro Home Inspections, Serving Rochester and Southeastern, MN.  507-202-8942


Cleaning Dirt and Stains from a Concrete Driveway

There are several recommendations to cleaning your concrete driveway. One of the quickest and easiest ways to clean it is using a high pressure water washer. You can rent a heavy duty model with a wide sweeping tip and get the job done quickly and efficiently. Dirt and grime are removed amazingly quick.  You can also use the washer on your patio furniture, fence, car, even your house!  Use caution when cleaning wood or aluminum siding with a pressure washer as damage can occur to the siding and caulk from the high pressure spray causing water to seep in behind the siding. The high pressure washer will not remove all mildew, rust, oil, or paint stains on the driveway, however. You must treat these stains before or after the big wash.

Removing Mildew

If dark stains remain on your concrete after washing, test a small area by dampening the stain with fresh laundry bleach. If the bleach lightens the stain within a few minutes, the stains are mildew and can be removed with bleach.

Bleaching the mildewed surface is recommended. You can use a product called “Jomax” with a laundry bleach and water solution. “Jomax” is a mildewcide and this along with the detergent will activate the bleach, creating a much more effective cleaning tool. Use eye and skin protectors and cover all plants  in the area with a plastic. Spraying water on the plants in the area before and after the application can avoid damage to them. Follow label instructions, and use the cleaning solution within 2 hours after you prepare it.

Rick Erickson, HomePro Home Inspections, Serving Rochester and Southeastern, MN.  507-202-8942


Repainting Aluminum Siding

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You have cleaned your aluminum siding on your home and it still doesn’t have the luster you desire, painting may be in order.  Maybe you have some peeling that you would like to repair.  As a home inspector, I occasionally come across aluminum siding that is worn from vegetation rubbing against it or peeling due to the elements.  

 If painting is the next step, and you have cleaned the siding, your next step is to priming the effected areas.  Use a solvent based primer for any bare spots or corroded areas on the aluminum.  Perform a careful inspection of all surfaces of your homes siding and apply primer as required.  Severely chalky areas should also be primed.

 After priming, you are ready for your color top coat.  Choose a product that is specifically designed for aluminum and metal siding.  Typically this is a 100% acrylic paint.  Choosing the right product will result in a surface that will last for 10 years or more on most metal sidings.

 If you’re the siding on your home is in real bad shape and has a lot of paint peeling, you may want to contact the manufacturer of the siding.  It can be difficult to determine the manufacturer but if you know who the home builder was, or who installed the siding, they may be able to help.  Most all manufacturers will stand behind their products.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942


Deteriorated Chimney Cap
Deteriorated Chimney Cap and Mortar

Deteriorated Chimney Cap and Mortar

After years and years of exposure to the elements, the mortar and wash cap around your tile chimney top can start to crack and deteriorate.  These types of defects should be noted by your home inspector at the time of your home inspection. 

Cracks in your chimney cap should be caulked or sealed in order to prevent damage form freeze/that cycles during the harsh Rochester and Southeastern MN weather.  When water is trapped in the masonry or mortar joints, freezing literally starts to break the chimney apart. 

Small cracks can be sealed with masonry caulk, or silicone.  The best choice would be a urethane or one part epoxy product.

After inspecting your chimney mortar and cap for cracks and deterioration, clean the cracks with a brush or air spray.  Fill the cracks with caulk and/or sealant.  Caulk should only be used if the cracks are relatively small.  You should inspect your chimney cap at least once a year.  If it is too high or dangerous for you to attempt yourself, contact a local Rochester or Southeastern MN. Chimney contractor to perform an inspection and repairs.

Larger cracks or major chimney repairs should be handled by professional masons or certified chimney sweeps.  If the chimney cap is in real bad shape, the long term solution would be to have the cap replaced with poured concrete.  The concrete mix used should be formulated to withstand the weather extremes and moisture.  Caps should have adequate expansion joints between the concrete and the clay chimney flue tile.  This expansion joint should be sealed after the chimney cap is cured.  Pre cast chimney caps may also be available in various sizes from you local chimney contractor.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942



The review of the inspection report findings was excellent. It was easy to ask questions. Rick has a thorough knowledge of homes, and provided us great answers.

Becky M, Lewiston, MN

We used Rick for our first home and the inspection was great. It’s a very old house so we made sure to be absolutely thorough. Rick’s inspection report reflected this with photos of all the issues he found. Rick’s a great guy to boot.‎

Aaron S. Minneapolis, MN

This is our second home purchase, and our Realtor recommended Rick.  He was very knowledgable whenever we asked him questions regarding the home.  He gave us reassurance in our new home decision and I would recommend him to others.

Andrea P, Rochester, MN


Call and schedule your inspection today 507.202.8942