You have found some mold in your home and now you have questions. Is it possible for me to get rid of it, or do you need to call in a professional mold remediation company? 

There are situations where you can remediate, or halt the mold growth on your own.  Remediation is removal of contaminated and/or hazardous materials from your home.  If the problem is small, a good dousing of bleach should stop the mold infestation.  If the invasion is less than ten square feet, you can probably attack the problem on your own and do the repairs. 

There is one thing to remember though. Even though bleach can kill the mold, once the spore is dead it can still release harmful toxins into the air of your home. You must also consider that the fumes in bleach chloride are not the healthiest things for your lungs either.  The bleach you buy in the stores is watered down.  It has to be or it would be a public hazard to handle. And what does mold like? You guessed it, water.  While bleach can do some good, it is not the most reliable method of mold remediation. 

Antibacterial products are effective deterrent to mold growth. They will retard mold growth, but will not prevent dried (even dead) mold spores form floating in the air, releasing toxins and causing health problems in some people. However, once the mold and its’ source are removed, antibacterial gels can be a good deterrent to future mold infestations. 

So, how do you know if you got it all? Mold and mildew can seep into microscopic cracks and porous materials.  There are a lot of places in your house that are porous – concrete slabs, drywall, wood and brick, etc.   It may be worth it to call in a professional who handle this stuff on a daily basis. 

Both the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Center of Disease Control (CDC)  have explicit standards and instructions on how to remove mold.  A respirator  ( N-95 dust mask) should be worn at all times in the presence of mold per the EPA.  If the mold is spread over 30 square feet, the regulations state that you have a choice whether to call in a professional or to let a cleaning or maintenance company handle the job. More than 30 square feet and it is always best to contact a professional mold remediation company. 

Not only do you have to stop the mold, you also have to stop the entrance of moisture into your home. If you can keep the mold from growing back, your battle is won. The EPA has a list of registered chemicals and even biodegradable substances specifically for mold remediation . These are contained in anti-bacterial sealants that professionals must registered to handle and trained to use.  The professional mold remediation technician may need to use methods of sanding or other abrasive techniques to help the sealant stick.  Let them. You should be wary of companies that just want to spray a filmy substance before the moldy or dirt laden surfaces are cleaned and treated.  There are several tings to consider when dealing with mold:  Invasive treatment v/s non-invasive treatment. Treat or tear it all out. As a home owner, how would you know what is best?  It may be in your best interest to contact a local mold remediation company.

So how do you find a reputable mold remediator?  Visit their web site.  Make sure they are using EPA approved equipment, chemicals and HEPA filtration devices. Check their permits and references. Check for nationally recognized accreditations or associations.  Also keep in mind that with all the scare out there pertaining to mold in homes, there are some flim-flam artists out there ready to prey on worried home owners.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com

In plumbing system, a trap is located below plumbing fixtures to prevent sewer gasses from entering the building. You will see in the attached video from a recent home inspection that there is what is referred to as an “S” Trap. In many locations, plumbing codes do not allow “S” Traps as they are prone to siphon out the water seal even if properly vented, thus allowing sewer gassed to escape into the building. The accepted type of trap is called a “P” Trap.

If your driveway, sidewalk or patio has a large area of concrete that has settled unevenly and now has a pitch towards your home foundation and threatens to flow rain water towards the basement, you may have a candidate for mudjacking.

Mudjacking is a process that utilizes hydraulic pressure to raise or level concrete slabs and sidewalks.  A series of holes approximately 2 inch holes are drilled through the slab a pre determined locations.  A mixture of water, ground stone and cement is pumped through the holes with a special machine.  The stiff mud that is pumped under the slab will lift it to the desired location or slope. 

If you have a slab that is in relatively good condition with few cracks, mudjacking can be a more cost effective way of correcting the problem than replacing the slab.  Done correctly, the repair will last for years

In this video, you will see where a home owner has used an extension cord a permanent wiring. The cord is run from one room to another, through the cieling and down next to the electrical panel. I recommended to the home owner that they have an electrician provide proper wiring and a duplex receptacle to meet their needs. If you enjoyed this video, and would like to see more like it, please leave a comment.

 Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942.

You realize you have a basement leak!  Now What? 

Sometimes it can seem like keeping your basement dry is a never ending battle, but, keeping your basement dry may not be as hard as you think. There are some simple steps you can take that will keep your basement dry and comfortable.

While it may sound like a little thing, as a home inspector I occasionally come across outdoor water spigots that were leaking.  Even what you may consider a slight drip can develop into several gallons of water per day, running down the foundation wall.  A simple fix could have prevented the problem. 

Gutters and downspouts need to be kept clear of all debris.  Check them for any damage that would prevent water from flowing properly through them.  Rainwater spilling out on a concentrated area can create and erode low places in your grade and allow water to concentrate against your foundation wall and in time can deteriorate the concrete or concrete block joints.  It will also start seeping through cracks in your basement wall and cause a basement leak.

Where the water exits at the bottom of the downspout is a critical area. It must be allowed to flow away from the foundation. This can consist of a simple splash block or a drain pipe extension as needed.

Make sure the grade around your house slopes away your foundation wall. Sometimes that is not an easy task, but is a must to keep the drainage water away from the foundation. Any low areas found next to your foundation should be filled and graded away from your foundation. 

Fix any plumbing leaks as they happen. This may seem like a no-brainer task, but in some cases, these leaks are really hard to notice. Discoloration of flooring is sometimes the only indication of a possible leak.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942

On a recent home inspection I came across what appeared to be a blocked chimney flue.  Both the furnace and water heater were functioning properly with nice blue flames.  I was however getting back draft Carbon Monoxide exhaust from both appliances.  Carbon Monoxide does not smell or taste and can lead to death if occupants are over exposed.  I recommended to the homeowner that they immediately get a qualified Plumbing & Heating contractor to resolve the condition.  In addition, it was recommended that Carbon Monoxide detectors be installed on all levels of the home.

If you enjoyed this video, and would like to see more like it, please leave a comment.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com/

There's more than one way to fix a leaky faucey...

There’s more than one way to fix a leaky valve.  In this particular instance the homeowner duct taped a sponge to the affected valve.  As it leaked, the water dispersed through the sponge and evaporated, thus preventing a leak to whatever lay below…

Special thanks to Trent Martin at Mr Rooter Plumbing for providing the photo and story.  Trent fixed the valve properly.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942

Staining your deck is one of the best ways to protect your investment from the elements, It will be easier to maintain and look better longer. However, you won’t get the best results by laying down a coat or two of stain without proper preparation of the deck surface.  Every deck staining project should start with a proper cleaning and preparation. Although you may want a perfect – sunny weekend to stain your deck, prepping can be done at any time.  Take a look at these simple steps below to help achieve great-looking results that last:

Get all of your tools and materials together. To make your project flow, and save time, have the following within reach before you start your project:
* Broom or leaf blower
* Ladder (for decks off ground)
* Rags
* Tarps
* Buckets for mixing
* Synthetic brushes (2 to 4 inches)
* Rollers
* Long handles for rollers
* Roller frames and roller grids
* Cleaning product. Your local Rochester or Southeastern MN hardware or building supplies store offers a variety of wood cleaning and stripping products to help clean and brighten surfaces dulled and grayed by the sun, dirt and rain.

Check your deck surfaces to make sure they are both safe and sturdy.  Be sure to inspect for areas that may have bad wood, dry rot, loose nails, loose spindles and broken boards. Replace boards as needed and secure any loose nails and spindles.

Prepare yourself, the deck and the surrounding area. Make sure you follow all safety precautions prescribed by the cleaning product manufacturer before starting your deck cleaning project. Wear gloves, safety glasses or goggles, and old clothing – shorts are not recommended when using chemicals. Before starting, cover any areas you want to protect, wet down plants and shrubs, and wet your deck surface with water.

Clean, scrub and renew your deck. Work the cleaner into the wood, starting from the bottom up to reduce streaking. Be sure to keep surfaces wet with water and let the wood cleaner stand for 20 to 30 minutes before rinsing. Once you have your deck cleaned, the wood should dry for at least 48 hours before applying any stains or paint.

For the most part, cleaning the average sized deck, (300 to 500 square feet) deck will take you five to six hours. And, since Mother Nature won’t harm your work, cleaning can be done on a gloomy day. Once you have your deck properly cleaned you should stain it within 30 days. After 30 days, you may have to do a light cleaning with bleach and water before staining will do the trick. 

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942

The ONLY way to find out if your home has high Radon levels is to have your home tested.
50-60% of all homes tested in Olmsted and the surrounding counties exceed the EPA’s recommended action level of 4 pCi/L.  Nationwide, 7% of homes are estimated to have high Radon levels.  Levels can vary widely even from home to home in the same neighborhood.

HomePro Home Inspections uses the latest in Radon Measurement technology.  The Sun Nuclear 1029 continuous Radon Monitor provides accurate, continuous Radon Measurement for our clients.  This unit is far superior to passive radon measurement devices and provides a high level of tamper proof features.  Passive Radon measurement devices can be moved, windows can be opened, etc.  during the Radon Measurement process.

The NEW model 1029 Continuous Radon Monitor is even more impressive with environmental sensors checking temperature, barometric pressure and relative humidity to further assist with closed building conditions. It has twice the sensitivity as it’s predecessors and provides selectable interval settings to read as low as half an hour.

A time and date clock will automatically record start/stop times and print along hourly intervals. A 12 hour delay start can be selected to meet all proficiency program closed building procedures. The monitor can be programmed to shut down when the test is complete. The software program allows “read only” time and date parameter’s to prevent tampering once the test is complete. Test site and weather conditions can also be added along with customer address and contact information. Add photo images of the monitor location in the home.

PC software allows for downloading printing of complete report with all readings and graphs to better provide an accurate picture of the Radon readings during the measurement process.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942

First, the more you use your air conditioner, the more often it should be checked.  Filters are a good place to start.  Cold air moves harder that hot air.  If your air filter is plugged, the fan has to work harder to move the air.  If the air isn’t moving, the air conditioner has to work harder to meet the desired temperature in the home.  Buy a good air filter and make sure to change them at the manufacturers prescribed frequency. 

At the condenser, (outside), make sure that there is adequate clearance for air flow around the unit.  Three feet above and one foot at the sides, minimum clearance will allow the air to flow freely.  Also, make sure that the cooling fins are free of debris and damage.  If the fins are clogged with dryer lint or grass clippings, air can’t move freely through the condenser. 

Catch small problems before they turn into big problems.  Noisy condenser units could be anything from a loose screw on a panel or safety screen, to a loose fan blade.  Loose fan blades could also be hitting part of the unit.  If everything is tight and there is still a noise, it could be the condenser motor.  You should call for service if this is the case.  Make sure that the unit is sitting level to prevent unnecessary wear on the motor bearings. 

Noise at the furnace could mean a bad motor or loose/worn drive belt.  Again, you should call a service technician for repairs.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942