Interior

Mold In My Home – How Do I Get Rid Of It?

You have found some mold in your home and now you have questions. Is it possible for me to get rid of it, or do you need to call in a professional mold remediation company? 

There are situations where you can remediate, or halt the mold growth on your own.  Remediation is removal of contaminated and/or hazardous materials from your home.  If the problem is small, a good dousing of bleach should stop the mold infestation.  If the invasion is less than ten square feet, you can probably attack the problem on your own and do the repairs. 

There is one thing to remember though. Even though bleach can kill the mold, once the spore is dead it can still release harmful toxins into the air of your home. You must also consider that the fumes in bleach chloride are not the healthiest things for your lungs either.  The bleach you buy in the stores is watered down.  It has to be or it would be a public hazard to handle. And what does mold like? You guessed it, water.  While bleach can do some good, it is not the most reliable method of mold remediation. 

Antibacterial products are effective deterrent to mold growth. They will retard mold growth, but will not prevent dried (even dead) mold spores form floating in the air, releasing toxins and causing health problems in some people. However, once the mold and its’ source are removed, antibacterial gels can be a good deterrent to future mold infestations. 

So, how do you know if you got it all? Mold and mildew can seep into microscopic cracks and porous materials.  There are a lot of places in your house that are porous – concrete slabs, drywall, wood and brick, etc.   It may be worth it to call in a professional who handle this stuff on a daily basis. 

Both the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Center of Disease Control (CDC)  have explicit standards and instructions on how to remove mold.  A respirator  ( N-95 dust mask) should be worn at all times in the presence of mold per the EPA.  If the mold is spread over 30 square feet, the regulations state that you have a choice whether to call in a professional or to let a cleaning or maintenance company handle the job. More than 30 square feet and it is always best to contact a professional mold remediation company. 

Not only do you have to stop the mold, you also have to stop the entrance of moisture into your home. If you can keep the mold from growing back, your battle is won. The EPA has a list of registered chemicals and even biodegradable substances specifically for mold remediation . These are contained in anti-bacterial sealants that professionals must registered to handle and trained to use.  The professional mold remediation technician may need to use methods of sanding or other abrasive techniques to help the sealant stick.  Let them. You should be wary of companies that just want to spray a filmy substance before the moldy or dirt laden surfaces are cleaned and treated.  There are several tings to consider when dealing with mold:  Invasive treatment v/s non-invasive treatment. Treat or tear it all out. As a home owner, how would you know what is best?  It may be in your best interest to contact a local mold remediation company.

So how do you find a reputable mold remediator?  Visit their web site.  Make sure they are using EPA approved equipment, chemicals and HEPA filtration devices. Check their permits and references. Check for nationally recognized accreditations or associations.  Also keep in mind that with all the scare out there pertaining to mold in homes, there are some flim-flam artists out there ready to prey on worried home owners.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942. http://www.homepro-inspection.com


Inspection of Attic Venting

Improper Venting to Attic

Bathroom and Kitchen improperly vented to Attic Roof Vent

You can see from the pictures above that it is important that the home inspector does a carefull inspection of the attic areas to insure that all venting exits through the roof.  These pictures are from two separate home inspections that UI did over the last couple of months.  In each case, the home owner had added either bathroom and/or kitchen exhaust vents and terminated then in the attic. They were all aimed at a roof vent in an effort to exhaust to the outside.  You see in the one picture that the handy work failed and the duct never even made it to the roof vent. 

To insure proper ventilation of bathrooms and kitchens it is important that all vents exit the roof through proper roof vents.  Venting to the attic adds moisture to the attic area which can result in icing and excess moisture in that attic area.   

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942


Insulate Your Home

 

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When it gets cold outside we usually grab a blanket to help stay warm.  Wrap your home in a blanket by adding insulation to areas like the attic, basement walls, and crawlspaces.  Additional insulation can help to reduce your yearly energy costs and make your home more comfortable.

You can make the biggest impact to your energy savings by adding insulation to that attic area of your home.  If you are able to access your attic, make a general inspection of your average insulation depth.  A recommended R-Value for the Rochester and Southeastern MN area is between R49 and R60 for attics.  This can mean adding anywhere from 12-24 inches of blown fiberglass insulation on top of what you may already have in your attic. 

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942


It’s Important That Carbon Monoxide Detectors Are Placed Properly

hh_det_prev_carbon_monoI see a lot of homes in the process of performing home inspections that do not have Carbon Monoxide (CO) detectors installed.  In some cases  I find that they are not installed properly.  If you are installing only one carbon monoxide detector in your home, the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends it be located near the sleeping area, where it can wake you if you are asleep.  Additional detectors should be located on every level and within 10 feet of every bedroom of a home to provide extra protection against carbon monoxide poisoning.

It should be noted that carbon monoxide detectors not be located directly above or beside fuel-burning appliances, as appliances may emit a small amount of carbon monoxide upon start-up. Also make sure that detectors are not placed within fifteen feet of heating or cooking appliances or in or near very humid areas such as bathrooms.

I often get asked whether it is better to place a carbon monoxide detector at the ceiling or use the type that plugs into an outlet.  Carbon monoxide is roughly the same weight as air so it can and may be contained in warm air coming from combustion appliances such as home heating equipment. If this is the case, carbon monoxide will rise with the warmer air.  Carbon monoxide is produced from incomplete combustion of fossil fuels. In the home CO can be formed, for example, by open flames, space heaters, water heaters, blocked chimneys or running a car inside a garage.

Since CO is colorless, tasteless and odorless (unlike smoke from a fire), detection and prevention of carbon monoxide poisoning in a home environment is impossible without such a warning device. To make sure that we are covered here in the Rochester and Southeastern Mn area, the state of Minnesota passed a law that requires CO detectors in all dwellings.  And again, that’s every level and within 10 feet of sleeping areas to protect you and your family.

Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942


Dryer Venting
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Improper dryer venting through corrugated plastic material can result in a fire hazard in your home.  When performing a home insection it is important that the home inspector determine that the proper dryer venting has been installed.  Your dryer should be vented through the proper materials to prevent fires.  Appliance manufacturers recommend solid metal smooth bore dryer venting.  Take some time at least once a year to make sure that the venting is unobstructed and free of built up lint. 

 Rick Erickson, HomePro Home Inspections, Serving Rochester and Southeastern, MN.  507-202-8942


What’s Wrong With My Windows?

It’s hard to believe, but a family of four can generate up to 18 gallons of water in the form of humidity inside a home in a week? Cooking, showering, washing and drying clothes, and even breathing, creates a lot of water and it has to go somewhere.

Your windows are usually the first place you will see evidence of moisture resulting from high humidity in a home.  Here in the Rochester MN area, the colder it is outside during the winter, the more evident high humidity will be.  This does not mean there’s a problem with your windows. The majority of window condensation simply indicates that your home needs increased ventilation to lower the amount of moisture in the air or you need to reduce the sources of the humidity.  I did a home inspection on a home last year where there was a concern with the sky lights and moisture.  Turns out that the humidifier has mal functioned and the humidity was near 60%.  The humidifier was disabled, and within a day or so, the windows dried up.

Older homes tend to have more cracks in their construction, allowing “natural” air infiltration into the home and help reduce moisture.  Newer homes, however, are much tighter and therefore tend to trap moisture in. this is helpful from an energy efficiency standpoint, but contributes to condensation and creates the potential for condensation on surfaces that are cooler than the dew point.

Humidity is generated by cooking food, running the dishwasher, filling the sink with hot water, showers, hot tubs, washers and indoor-vented dryers, basements and crawl spaces that channel dampness from the ground into the home, breathing and perspiration.

Other than these perpetual sources of moisture, wood, plaster and other building materials in a new home will absorb moisture during humid summers and gradually release it after the first few weeks of heating your home in the fall.

Can this damage my windows?
The occasional moisture condensation on the glass after a hot shower, or when steaming food on the stove usually aren’t a problem.  However, if your windows are “sweating” without cause or for long periods of time, your windows could become damaged. Wood frames and sash can warp and become difficult to operate. Paint or other finishes may peel or become discolored. Other areas of the home could also be damaged, such as insulation, exterior siding and drywall.

What Can I Do?
Decrease the amount of moisture in the air that can condensate on windows is the first step.  You may have to add ventilation, eliminate sources of humidity or remove humidity from the air after it’s been generated. To lower the humidity in your home, you need to increase ventilation and decrease the sources of moisture.

  •  Run exhaust fans in the bathroom during a shower, or in the kitchen while cooking.
  • Take shorter showers and install water-restricting faucets – you’ll lower your humidity and your water bill.
  • Use the microwave, slow cooker, or outdoor grill more frequently.
  • Check and reroute drainage away from your home to minimize the moisture in and around the basement and foundation.
  • Run a dehumidifier in basements and other damp areas.
  • Turn off your furnace humidifier or other home humidifier.
  • Open drapes and blinds to allow warm house air to circulate across the windows.

Are All Windows Affected by Condensation?
Condensation will appear on any type of window, if a home has high humidity. Vinyl, wood or aluminum windows, regardless of manufacturer, will have some condensation if the air is humid.

 One component in standard dual-pane glass, or insulated glass, can help minimize condensation. The adhesive spacer that bonds together the two panes can help reduce condensation if it is comprised of a non-metal material. Traditionally these spacers have been made of stainless steel or aluminum, both of which conduct heat and cold readily. A non-metal spacer minimizes conductivity and, in turn, reduces condensation. “The non-metal, spacer system also improves the energy efficiency of windows while reducing condensation.  The less metal a window has, the less it will conduct heat and cold, the less condensation will appear on the glass, and the more energy efficient it will be

Rick Erickson, HomePro Home Inspections, Serving Rochester and Southeastern, MN.       507-202-8942



I greatly appreciated your professionalism and your attention to detail.  Buying a home is exciting and expensive, and I tend to overlook things that may be important or a problem.

Debbie H, Pine Island, MN

Thank You!  Out of the whole home buying experience , the home inspection was by far the easiest part!

Jackie E. Kasson, MN

Thank you for being so flexible with your schedule.  We couldn’t have been happier with the home inspection.  Rick walked us through every detail of the home.  Thank you.

Megan O, Patrick G. Rochester, MN


Call and schedule your inspection today 507.202.8942