Inspectors Blog
Crumbling Front Porch
This is an example of one way not to repair a crumbling porch. Over time the elements got to the outer later of this porch brickwork. Mortar and bricks became loose and fell out. What the home owner did was to provide bracing to keep addotional courses of block from falling out.
I did not do a home inspection on this property. The picture was taken from the street of a home I was driving by when I saw the condition of the porch structure. It is not know if there was any kind of Safery issue related ith the deteriorated brick work.
Posted on Saturday, September 10th, 2011.
Tags: Exterior, Foundation, Hazard, Maintenance, Rick Erickson, Structural
Posted in Exterior Components, Oh My Gosh..., Structural
If you have a garage, chances are that you also have at least one garage door opener. Your garage door opener is one of those things that runs day in and day out for years..until it doesn’t. Like anything, your garage door opener will operate properly, for a long time if it is properly maintained.
There are two main types of garage door openers used today. The Chain Drive is the most widely used, followed by the Screw Drive. At least a couple of times a year you should inspect your garage door and make any necessary adjustments and maintenance. Below are some tips to help you keep your garage door opener maintained and operating properly for years to come.
Loose Bolts/Hardware
The major problem with garage door openers is the vibration as a result of the door going up and down. Take a screwdriver, ratchet or adjustable wrench and make sure that all nuts, bolts and screws are snug up and tight.
Lubrication
Keeping your chain or lead screw oiled will help to reduce wear, noise and corrosion. A properly oiled chain and lead screw will operate more smoothly and last longer. You should also make sure that the garage door rails and wheels are properly greased so that they slide easily without binding.
Chain
As I point out at many
home inspections, it is important that the chain does not have excessive slack. Excessive slack will cause your door to close hard, and not travel smoothly. In some cases the uneven and jerking movement from a loose chain can result in cracking at the top panel where the lift mechanism is attached. Make sure that your chain is taught, and not over tightened.
Electric Eye and Auto Reverse
These safety features help to prevent the garage door from coming down on and crushing or pinning an object, human or a pet. Make sure that the electric eyes are un-obstructed and clean. With the door traveling downward, simply pass an object into the light beam. If they are working properly they should reverse the door to open. The auto reverse has two screws located on the garage door assembly that are used to adjust how much force will be applied before the door reverses. If physically obstructed in the downward travel, the door should easily reverse. If the door does not reverse when lightly obstructed, simply adjust the down force screw until the door reverses with only a slight amount of obstruction.
Light Bulb
One of the most underrated areas of your garage door opener is the light bulb. Most people never even think about the light until it quits working. It’s a good idea to change your light bulb every 18-24 months just to make sure that it works when you need it.
Posted on Monday, August 29th, 2011.
Tags: DIY, Garage, Hazard, Home Tip, Maintenance, Rick Erickson, Rochester MN, Safety
Posted in Garage, Inspectors Blog, Monthly Home Tip
How Not To Fix A Leaking Drum Trap
Not sure how to fix a leaking drum trap? Well, neither was this guy. He did however find a way to direct the leak to a drain, in the basement shower below. Some string, a funnel and some old garden hose and we’re good.
During home inspections I frequently come abross several unique ways to stop leaks from coating with silicone or epoxy, hanging buckets under them and such. It’s really best to have the leak properly resolved. Who wants to be exposed to whatever is leaking out of this thing.
Special thanks go out to Trent Martin over at Mr Rooter Plumbing for sharing this photo.
Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942
Posted on Friday, August 12th, 2011.
Tags: Basement, DIY, Health, Maintenance, Oh My Gosh..., Plumbing, Rick Erickson, Rochester MN, Safety, Wet Basement
Posted in Inspectors Blog, Oh My Gosh..., Plumbing
Water Heater Corrosion
Most water heaters last 10 to 15 years. Wet spots on the floor or rust on your tank may signal that you have a problem. Lots of rust flakes in the combustion chamber will also indicate the water heater is near the end of its useful life. Other signs that the hot water heater is at the end of life is when the water smells like rotten eggs or, when the heater is heating, sounds like there are marbles rolling around inside the tank. When any of these signs are noted, the tank is usually between 10 and 15 years old and ready for replacement. It is best to replace a heater before it leaks and avoid any water damage.
When installing a new heater install a catch pan under the heater, if possible, with a drain line to the exterior of the house or a floor drain. If a leak develops and you have a catch pan and drain, the water will be diverted and discharged of properly. Metal or plastic drain pans are inexpensive and well worth the protection they provide in the event of a leak.
Rick Erickson, Home Inspector. HomePro Home Inspections. Rochester, Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942
Posted on Thursday, August 11th, 2011.
Tags: Drainage, Home Improvement, Home Tip, Plumbing, Rick Erickson, Safety, Water Heater, Wet Basement
Posted in Inspectors Blog, Plumbing
I just had a
home inspection client cancel his
home inspection this past Monday on a vacant home. The Realtor and plumber met at the property in the morning to turn the water on and reported that there was standing water in the basement that was seeping in through the foundation. As a result, the client decided to cancel his offer on the property.
I can only guess the reason for the water intrusion, but as I discuss with all of my
home inspection clients, Gutters and Down Spouts, when properly installed can go a long towards helping to keep your basement dry.
The number one culprit for causing water penetration into the basement of a house is rain gutter downspouts discharging rain water right alongside the foundation. All downspouts should discharge the water at least five feet or more from the foundation. If a downspout is discharging water right alongside the foundation, I recommend installing downspout extensions. That is an easy job that most people can do themselves.
Getting the water away from the foundation will help to avoid water penetration into the basement. Close-to-the-house downspout discharge is not the problem of all water problems in the basement, but it is certainly one of the major ones. If a water penetration problem develops in the basement, before you call in a waterproofing contractor, check the downspout discharge area.
As already mentioned the correction may be as simple as installing extensions on the downspouts and discharging the water away from the house.
One other tip on water penetration and downspout discharge, if your downspout discharges to an under ground discharge pipe and you are getting water penetration in the downspout area, you may have a damaged underground discharge pipe. That pipe may be discharging water right alongside the foundation causing the water intrusion. To determine whether or not the in-ground pipe is damaged and causing the problem, disconnect the downspout from the in-ground pipe and put a five foot extension on the downspout. This will allow the water discharge to occur above the ground. If the water penetration into the basement stops, is will be evident that the broken in-ground pipe line is the problem. If that’s the case, you can either dig up and repair the pipe or just stay with the above ground discharge extension.
Posted on Wednesday, August 10th, 2011.
Tags: Basement, DIY, Foundation, Home Tip, Maintenance, Mold, Rick Erickson, Rochester MN, Wet Basement
Posted in Basement, Exterior Components, Inspectors Blog, Monthly Home Tip
It’s Summer, and if you haven’t noticed yet, we have had a few storms. Once a storm has passed and it is safe to go outside, make a careful
inspection of the exterior of your home and repair any minor damage that may have occurred. These things don’t take care of themselves, so taking prompt action for minor problems can help ensure they don’t end up being a major headache.
Below are a few guidelines for assessing and dealing with storm damage:
Roof
Use a pair of strong binoculars to perform a preliminary
inspection of your roof from the ground or eaves. No sense of getting on the roof if you don’t have to. Check the roof for missing or lifted shingles. Check the edges, valleys and ridges for damage. Also take a good look around protrusions such as vent pipes, attic ventilation and chimneys. If you have to go onto the roof to further investigate, make sure that you can do so safely, and take precautions to prevent injury.
If accessible, view the underside of your roof from the attic assess. Discoloration of the wood or decking could signal water infiltration problems. If flashings have been damaged, there may be light coming in around vent pipes, exhaust vents, or the chimney.
Even if you are a seasoned do-it-yourselfer, always consider difficulties and potential dangers when considering roof repairs. If you have any doubts about your abilities, ask for professional help at your local home improvement store or higher a professional.
Gutters & Downspouts
The checklist below will help you detect obvious signs of a failed gutter system. Clogged or damaged gutters will not properly route water away from your house and can result in moisture problems in your basement. As many of you have heard me explain – a one inch rain fall on a thousand square feet of roof surface is 630 gallons of water. We want to make sure that water isn’t pooling around your foundation.
* Gutter(s) that are hanging off the roof
* Downspout(s) that are disconnected from the gutter or house
* Missing gutters
* Water in the basement or elsewhere inside the house
* Leaking or dripping gutter seams
* Overflowing gutters
Again, if you are handy, you can easily repair minor leaks or sags yourself by patching or adding hanging brackets. Visit your local hardware store for advice and the proper hardware for these fixes. More serious gutter damage may require a professional.
Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections, Serving Rochester and Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942
Posted on Tuesday, August 2nd, 2011.
Tags: DIY, Exterior, Hazard, Home Improvement, Home Tip, Maintenance, Roofing, Structural
Posted in Exterior Components, Inspectors Blog, Monthly Home Tip, Roofing
- Improper Electrical Wiring
This was the wiring that the homeowner strung from the second story of the house (maybe off a bedroom circuit?) to the garage, which was about 40 feet away. Not only are the wires through the steel siding dangerous, there is no support for the wire. And how about that wire wrapped loop at the insulator. I recommended that an electrician remove this wiring and provide a safe solution with proper wire, support and terminations.
Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections, Serving Rochester and Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942
Posted on Monday, August 1st, 2011.
Tags: Building Codes, DIY, Electrical, Hazard, Oh My Gosh..., Rick Erickson, Safety
Posted in Inspectors Blog, Oh My Gosh...
Unsafe Wiring
During a recent home inspection I came across this electrical wiring that was in contact with both a heating duct and the water heater exhaust vent. The wiring against the exhaust vent has the potential of melting, allowing the bare wires to come in contact with the metal vent. This could result in electrocution if someone were to come in contact with the metal vent.
Posted on Sunday, July 31st, 2011.
Tags: Electrical, Furnace, Hazard, Rick Erickson, Safety, Venting, Water Heater
Posted in Inspectors Blog, Oh My Gosh...
When was the last time that you had your air conditioning serviced? Last year? Two years ago? Never?
We’re at the beginning of June and Summer will be here before you know it! Have you taken the time to make sure that your air conditioner is ready to handle the hot summer days and muggy summer nights to come.
In addition to cooling the air inside of your home, your air condition actually “conditions” the air. The air is cooled, dehumidified and filtered. This is why it is so important to keep your filters clean and change them regularly. Make sure that you install the correct size filter and insert the new filter in the proper direction of the air flow indicating arrows. Always make sure that you can put the filter cover securely in place. You can reduce your energy consumption by 5% to 15% by replacing your filters at the prescribed intervals. Dirty filters result in your air conditioner having to work harder to move and cool the air. Cold air is harder to move that hot air which makes it even more important to keep them filters clean and changed.
Taking the time to perform a little outside
inspection and maintenance will also help with your air conditioners performance. Be careful not to blow grass clippings in the direction of your compressor unit when mowing the lawn. Also maintain at least a minimum of one foot clearance around the compressor unit to allow for proper air flow and cooling of the coils.
Once a year, or when you compressor unit appears dirty, you can rinse the unit with a garden hose. Use the water stream to remove debris from the fan blades and the cooling coils. Clean coils and fans move the air more efficiently through the unit.
Never run your air conditioner if the outside temperature is below 65 degrees F. This can damage your compressor. Also, if you shut the power off to your air conditioner in the winter months, make sure that you turn the power back on at least 24 hours minimum prior to using your air conditioning system. There is a small heater in the compressor that keeps the lubricant at the proper operating temperature. If the lubricant temperature is too low you can damage the compressor unit.
You can use your ceiling fans to help move the cooled air in your home can make it more comfortable with your air conditioner set to a higher temperature than in summers past.
If you feel real energetic you could set some time aside to go through your home to ensure that the ductwork is properly insulated, especially in the attic or garage. Be sure that there is no furniture covering up the vents and cold air returns in each of your rooms. As you would in the winter, inspect the weather-stripping around your doors and windows to see if it needs to be replaced. Making sure that your windows, doors and fireplace dampers are completely closed helps to prevent cooled air from unnecessarily escaping your home too.
Try doing laundry or using the oven early morning or late evening. This will help to keep your home cooler during the day when the outdoor temperature is typically at its warmest.
Lastly, it is highly recommended that you have your air conditioning unit inspected by a licensed and insured service technician every couple of years. You want to make sure that your air conditioner will keep your home comfortable for years. Periodic service can prevent unexpected failures, and save you money in the long run.
Rick Erickson, Home Inspector, HomePro Home Inspections, Serving Rochester and Southeastern, MN. 507-202-8942
Posted on Tuesday, June 7th, 2011.
Tags: Air Conditioning, Air Filter, DIY, Energy Efficiency, Home Tip, Maintenance, Rick Erickson
Posted in Air Conditioning, Inspectors Blog, Monthly Home Tip
Washing Machine Hoses
Failure of washing machine water hoses is one of the leading causes of residential water leaks and damage. Your standard rubber hoses have a typical life of up to 5 years.
There are however, better grades of hoses available that will minimize or eliminate potential for leaks, bursting and water damage. Changing and installation of new hoses is simple and can be done in 15-30 minutes.
The most common, and much safer hose are the ones with the braided stainless steel covering. These hoses can be purchased at many hardware stores and are much stronger and resistant to bursting. These hoses are going to cost you ar0und $30 for the set. There is a one brand of the braided hoses that goes for about $50 for the set and has a 20 year guarantee.
Take the time to complete a full inspection of your water hoses. Replace them if they show any signs of wear or deterioration. Upgrading your washer hoses is well worth the effort and the peace of mind that you protected against sudden bursting of an old water hose.
Posted on Wednesday, April 20th, 2011.
Tags: DIY, Hazard, Home Tip, Maintenance, Plumbing, Rick Erickson, water damage
Posted in Inspectors Blog, Plumbing