Why Does My Bathroom Sink Gurgle?

 Using a plunger to unclog a gurgling sink.

 Maybe you are a new homeowner, or perhaps you have owned your home for a while. Either way, you’ve probably realized that home ownership comes with chores. The last thing on most people’s minds is maintenance. We get into the habit of reacting to problems rather than being proactive to prevent them.

 One example can be your bathroom sink, bathtub drain, or toilet. One or more of these can have the drain plugged, which results in gurgling when draining. Before you figure out where to start with fixing the gurgling, you may have to do some inspection and troubleshooting.

 What are some causes of sink gurgling?

There are several reasons your sink may be gurgling, but the fundamental idea here is to have “air behind water” when the water is trying to flow in the drain. If the drain is not allowed to freely pull air into the plumbing system through the vent pipe, it will try to draw it from somewhere else. Below are a few things you can inspect to try and resolve your issue.

 ·        Clogged P-trap: All sinks have a P-trap directly under them. The P-trap keeps sewer gases from escaping from the plumbing system. Click here to learn more about sink traps.

·        Clogged vent pipe: The vent pipe usually exits your home through the roof. Sometimes they can be clogged due to leaves and debris from trees or birds. Our home inspectors have even come across a vent pipe that still has the plumber’s cap installed from when the home was built.

·        Clogged bathtub drain: A clogged bathtub drain can result in pressure buildup when draining. This can result in gurgling at your sink or toilet.

·        Clogged garbage disposal: Similar to your bathtub, if the drain at the garbage disposal gets clogged, air is trapped and may result in gurgling.

·        Clogged drains: Anywhere there is a clog in the plumbing system, there is potential for gurgling.

 Can I fix the gurgling in my sink?

The answer is yes; there are several things you can do to help prevent and stop the gurgling in your sinks. Cleaning out any clogs in your plumbing system is the first step in the process. Work through the list below until you have resolved the gurgling problems.

 ·        Start with a plunger. Using a small plunger may be the first tool on your list for unclogging a drain. Seat the plunger evenly in the sink.  Push straight up and down several times to try and suck out or dislodge the clog.

·        Try a drain cleaner. Drain cleaners can be harsh on both you and the environment. Try to choose something that is environmentally friendly but will still do the job. One of the simplest and somewhat effective solutions is vinegar, baking soda, and hot water.

·        Use a drain snake. A drain snake can reach farther into the plumbing to dislodge a clog. If it’s a bigger pipe that’s clogged, you may want to rent something to meet your needs.

·        Flush the system. If the solutions above don’t quite solve your problem, try flushing the system for 15 minutes with hot water. Sometimes filling the sink or tub in question with hot water and pulling the plug will help to remove the clog. The pressure and flow of draining a sink will give it a little extra boost.

·        Clean the P-trap. Sometimes the P-trap is so clogged that the only way to resolve the issue is to remove it, clean it out, and replace it.

 Cleaning a hair clog from the drain system under a sink

 If all else fails, there may be a blockage at the main vent or at an air blockage valve. If you flush a toilet and a sink gurgles, that means you have a blocked main vent. The gurgling in the sink is a result of the system sucking air past the P-trap to allow for drainage. Access to the main vent stack is usually on the roof. Use your best judgment on whether you attempt to snake it out or hire a professional plumber.

 Vent stack on a roof

 Summary

A gurgling sink or tub drain can be annoying, but the good news is that most times it can be easily resolved. The suggestions above are fairly simple for the average DIY person to complete with little time or effort. If you are not comfortable performing some of these tasks or getting on your roof, I recommend hiring a professional.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found with gurgling sinks or tubs are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Water Heater Maintenance Tips

We depend on our water heaters to provide us with an unlimited supply of hot water. Hot water is a necessity for showering, washing our hands, clothes, and dishes, and sometimes taking a long, relaxing hot bath. Like the other many appliances in our home, we just expect that it will work forever.

 Proper water heater maintenance is important to help optimize its lifespan. When maintained properly, your water heater can last up to 15 years or even longer. Water heater maintenance can easily be a DIY type of activity, but if you’re unsure of what’s needed, hire a professional to get it done correctly. Below are some maintenance tips that we feel will help you get the most life out of your water heater.

 Making adjustments during water heater maintenance

 Flush the water heater

Over time, sediment can build up at the bottom of the water heater tank. Maintenance that includes regular flushing of the tank will help to clean out sediment.

·         Turn off the water supply and all sources of energy, electrical or gas.

·         Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater. I use a short 6-foot section.

·         Open the valve and let the water run to a drain or into a large bucket.

·         Once the sediment is flushed, the water should run clear.

·         Return your system to normal operating conditions.

 Attaching a garden hose to the water heater drain valve

Adjusting the water temperature

Is your water heater gas or electric? When we inspect your home, our home inspector will document the type of water heater you have on your home inspection report. For you DIY types, look to see if a gas line or an electrical line is going to your water heater. If in doubt, the data plate sticker on the water heater should indicate what type of water heater you have. Items to look for that can help identify what type of water heater you have:

·         An electric water heater will likely have an adjusting screw behind a panel near the bottom of the unit.

o    Turn the power to your water heater off before removing the panel covers and making any kind of adjustments.

·         A gas water heater will have a thermostat control near the bottom of the unit. Simply turn the knob to your desired heat setting.

 General locations for electric and gas water heater temperature adjustments

 Inspect your water heater for leaks

Your home inspector will check your water heater for any signs of leaking. You can simply do the same when performing your water heater maintenance.

·         Inspect the water lines and valves coming to and from the water heater.

·         Look for water or stains and corrosion at the water heater's top, sides, and bottom.

·         Check to see that the drain valve is securely closed and not leaking.

·         Open and close the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve (TPRV), making sure that it is not leaking.

·         If you find any leaks that you can’t easily resolve, call a professional.

 Money-saving tips

·         Set the water heater temperature as low as possible, yet comfortably maintains your hot water needs. Lower temperatures help keep children safe from scalds or burns.

·         Use “vacation mode” or the lowest setting if you are going on vacation or if your home is seasonal, such as in the case of snowbirds or the cabin up north.

 Summary

Hot water in your home is essential to your comfort and health. Water heaters don’t last forever, and they can be quite costly to replace. Taking the time to ensure your water heater is running properly can help extend its life and save you money. If you are not comfortable performing these maintenance items, hire a professional.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of your home. Any issues found with your water heater are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Home Inspections and Inspecting Air Conditioners

Inspecting air conditioners during a home inspection and what a home inspector does can sometimes be misunderstood. Using the Standards of Practice (SOP) set forth by InterNACHI, we will try to explain the process and hopefully clarify the difference between testing at a home inspection and what a service person does when servicing an air conditioning system.

 Air Conditioning Unit Sitting on a Pad

Section 3.5: Cooling from the SOP

 I. The inspector shall inspect:

1. the cooling system, using normal operating controls.

II. The inspector shall describe:

1. the location of the thermostat for the cooling system; and

2. the cooling method.

III. The inspector shall report as in need of correction:

1. any cooling system that did not operate; and

2. if the cooling system was deemed inaccessible.

IV. The inspector is not required to:

1. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the cooling system.

2. inspect portable window units, through-wall units, or electronic air filters.

3. operate equipment or systems if the exterior temperature is below 65° Fahrenheit or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment.

4. inspect or determine thermostat calibration, cooling anticipation, or automatic setbacks or clocks.

5. examine electrical current, coolant fluids or gases, or coolant leakage.

 Normal operating conditions

To start with, we need to make sure that the air conditioning unit is warm enough. The external temperature needs to be at least 65 degrees for a minimum of 24 hours. This is important because there is potential to damage the condensing unit if it is operated at temperatures that are below 65 degrees.

 Unfortunately, here in Minnesota, there are some years when we cannot physically run air conditioners from late fall into late spring. This is as frustrating for us as it is for the people we are doing the home inspections for. If the temperatures do not meet operating criteria, we document in the inspection report that we were unable to fully inspect.

 If the air conditioner is not already set and running, your home inspector will switch the thermostat to cool mode to engage the system. The home inspector will document whether there is a single thermostat or multizone and whether or not the thermostat is programmable or not.

 The type of system present

The type of air conditioning system is documented in your inspection report. Typically, in our region, air conditioners are either a central air conditioning system, a window or wall unit, or a small split system.

 The location of the air conditioning unit on the exterior of the home is documented. There are several things that we look at on the exterior. When the unit is running, we make note of whether there are any unusual noises, vibrations, etc.

 Ensure the air conditioning unit is sitting level

The bearings in the compressor and fan of the condensing unit are designed to run in a vertical position. If your air conditioner is sitting on a pad that has settled, there will be a radial load on the bearings that may cause premature wear. Any unevenness will be documented as in need of correction.

 Proper operational clearances

The compressor unit should have a minimum of 12 inches of clearance on all sides and be unobstructed above the unit. This allows for the fan to adequately pull air through the cooling coils from the sides and blow it up and out of the top.

 The home inspection report will document any vegetation that needs to be cut back, debris such as grass clippings or dryer lint, and any damaged cooling fins in need of repair.

 Refrigerant lines

There are two lines running from the external condensing unit back to the air handler and cooling coil. One of them has no insulation and is called the high-pressure line, and if the unit is running, this line will be very hot. The refrigerant line, or suction line, is very cold and runs to the cooling coil. It should be completely covered with insulation. Any missing or damaged insulation will be documented as in need of repair.

 Air Conditioning Condensing Unit

Electrical Disconnect and Refrigerant Lines are Labeled

Electrical

An electrical disconnect is required within sight of the condensing unit. This disconnect allows a service person to safely remove power from the condensing unit while servicing. The type of disconnect will be documented in your home inspection report. Any damage or lack of a disconnect will be documented as in need of repair.

 Tumble Switch” Electrical Disconnect

Your home inspector will also look at the data plate on the side of the unit to determine the minimum and maximum amperage. For example, if the data plate indicates a maximum 30-amp breaker, we will confirm the breaker in the electrical panel. For example, we occasionally see in older homes where the data plate on a newer air conditioner indicates a maximum 20-amp breaker. However, when we inspect the electrical panel, we find a 30- or 40-amp breaker, which may have been the requirement for a much older unit. This defect would be documented as in need of repair.

 Data Plate Showing a Maximum of a 30-amp Fuse or Breaker

 Supply and return registers

Once we're in the house and the air conditioning unit has been running for a while, we check the supply and return vents to confirm that the air conditioning is running properly. There should be a difference in temperature of 14 to 21 degrees between the air blowing into a room and the air being sucked out of the room. Anything outside of that range indicates that the air conditioner is not functioning properly. The caveat here is that if it's 70 degrees outside and 72 degrees inside, we may not get that 14- to 21-degree difference between the two temperatures. Your home inspector needs to take this into consideration when taking these measurements.

 Furnace/air handler

When at the furnace, we look to see that there is a condensate drain line and that it is properly routed to a drain or a miniature sump pump. The condensate line takes the moisture that is removed from the air at the cooling coil and drains it from a catch tray. Any corrosion on the air handler chassis or water on the floor around the furnace would indicate the condensate line is plugged and the water is overflowing. Some furnaces, such as the one below, have a condensate overflow alarm installed.

 Furnace/Air Conditioner Air Handler

 Summary

As you can see, there is quite a bit that goes into inspecting an air conditioner during the process of a home inspection. This is primarily a visual inspection and is not 100% technically exhaustive. Our best recommendation to keep your air conditioner running at peak performance is to have annual checkups performed by a reputable HVAC company. They have tools and techniques that go above and beyond our standard practice.

  At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Does My Water Heater Need a TPR Valve?

Water heaters are a pretty resilient piece of equipment that provides you with hot water for your home. Unfortunately, since they operate pretty much seamlessly, most people completely forget about them. Keeping the safety features of your water heater properly maintained will help to prevent leaks and ensure proper operation in the event your water heater overheats.

 Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve (TPRV or TPR Valve)

 What is a TPRV?

Your Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve (TPR valve, or TPRV) is a safety feature that ensures the proper operation of your water heater. When heat is added to water, the water vaporizes and expands. The expansion of the water within your water heater creates increased pressure within. In the event that the water gets too hot and the pressure becomes too high, the TPR valve will open and allow that pressure to be relieved.

 A water heater can explode and launch if the internal pressure gets too high. This is a very rare occurrence to have a tank explode, but it can happen with defective TPRVs. To demonstrate the potential of an exploding water heater, take some time to watch this video from MythBusters.

If you are at your home inspection, your home inspector will usually explain what a TPRV is and why it is there.

 Water heater with TPRV and discharge pipe (right side)

 How to test a TPRV

A little maintenance will go a long way toward improving performance and keeping your water heater running safely. Take a little time every six months to perform a few key maintenance tasks, such as checking the water heater TPRV.

 ·        Lift the lever on your TPR valve up and down several times. This should open the valve and allow water to flow out of the drainpipe.

·        A reasonable amount of water should flow out of your water heater. If there is no water or barely a trickle, you should have your water heater serviced.

·        If water continues to flow out of your discharge tube after you have closed the TPR valve, there may be a piece of debris stuck in the valve. Open and close the valve several times to flush anything that may be blocking it from closing.

 Discharge pipe

Your water heater should have a discharge pipe attached to your TPRV. This is designed to direct any steam or water that is discharged down to the floor level.

 Confirm that your drain pipe is secure in the TPRV and that it extends down to within 6 to 18 inches of the floor. If your water heater is missing a discharge pipe, make sure to get one installed. If your water heater overheats and discharges through the TPRV without a discharge pipe, water and steam will be blown across the room rather than down to the floor. A missing discharge pipe could result in scalding or burns if somebody happens to be adjacent to the water heater.

 Summary

The TPR valve on your water heater is an important safety feature that should be maintained properly. Paying attention to small maintenance items will keep your equipment running properly throughout the years.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. TPRVs and discharge pipes are inspected as part of the water heater inspection. Any issues, such as leaking or corrosion, are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Why It’s Important to Clean Your Home’s Siding

Just like everything else, your vinyl siding needs to be cleaned. Over time, you may notice black, gray, and green stains on your siding, especially on the north side and areas where the sun doesn’t shine. Regardless of the type of siding, it gets dirty, and it needs to be cleaned at least once a year to stay looking good.

 Dirty vinyl siding

Pollen, dirt, and other debris blown around in the wind will accumulate on your home’s siding, along with bird poop and whatever it is that bugs and other critters leave on your home. All of this, along with moisture, can result in algae and mold growing on the surface of your siding. It's worse in areas of the country where it's damp and humid most of the time. It's a slow process of buildup, making your home’s siding look dingy and dull. That’s why it’s a good practice to clean the siding on your home at least once a year.

 Spring is a good time to clean your siding, but in reality, any time of year is fine. Choose a day that's going to be warm and sunny with very little wind. Before you start, take some time to inspect your siding, looking for areas that have heavy buildup, peeling paint, or other damage. If you are new to your home, check your home inspection report to see if your home inspector noted any maintenance or repair issues that need to be addressed.

 Methods to Clean Your Siding

 Basically, there are three simple methods you can use to clean your siding: a soft brush or cloth, a garden hose, or a pressure washer. Make your choice based on your siding, how dirty it is, and how large an area needs to be cleaned.

 Cleaning siding with a power sprayer and soap dispenser

Some experts caution against using a pressure washer to clean your siding. If you're not careful, you can cause damage to the surface. Make sure to keep the pressure lower and stay consistent with your spraying methods. You want to make sure that you're holding the power washer perpendicular to the wall. Don't aim your spray upwards, as you may drive water behind the siding. Use caution in areas where there might be damage or gaps in the siding that could blow out from higher pressures.

 If your siding is mildly dirty, you may just use a garden hose with a sprayer attachment to rinse off any debris that may have accumulated. This may work for most areas of your home.

 For minor stains and buildup, you can use a bucket of warm, soapy water and a soft bristle brush to loosen and remove the filth. Ordinary dish soap works well to loosen and remove light dirt, bird poop, and bug droppings.

 Cleaning Solutions for Siding

 As with anything else, there are an abundance of cleaning products out there to assist you in cleaning your home’s siding. Do your research and choose a product that meets your needs.

 Some products come in a container that can be screwed directly onto the end of your garden hose and sprayed onto your siding. Other products can be added to the soap dispenser of your power washer or just added to a bucket of warm water. I'm not making endorsements, but two products that I have personal experience with are “Wet and Forget” as well as “Moss Max.” They both work well. Make sure to completely follow all safety precautions with these products. If you want to stick with something more natural, use a solution of 30% white vinegar in your bucket of water. Vinegar works, but you may have to work a little harder in areas where the stains have built up.

 Process

 Typically, if you are adding a cleaning solution, you would want to start the application at the bottom and work your way up. This will prevent streaking. Work in smaller sections that are manageable and won't dry out before you have a chance to rinse. Rinse from the top down. Also, make sure that you protect any plants or decorations that may be near the side of the house. Some of these chemicals are harsh and will damage your vegetation and flowers.

 Safety

 Safety is important with all DIY projects. Make sure that you are wearing the proper personal protective equipment (PPE) recommended by any of the products you may use to clean your siding. Also, if you are using a ladder, make sure that you set it up properly so that it is stable and safe to be on. Don't forget that there may be electrical outlets and lighting that are going to get wet while you are cleaning your siding.

 Summary

 Whether you clean your home’s siding yourself or hire a professional, it's important to keep your house looking clean and protect the exterior. Staying on top of it by cleaning your siding annually will make the job easier in the long run.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Deferred maintenance and the buildup of mold, mildew, and debris can turn a relatively simple project into a more serious repair if left unchecked. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Kitchen Exhaust Fans

Keeping your home safe and having clean, quality indoor air is essential for your family’s health. What you cook, how you cook it, and the fumes, smoke, grease, odors, and steam that cooking creates all play a major role in indoor air quality. A kitchen exhaust fan helps to remove these components of cooking to keep your indoor air safe and clean.

 Ducted kitchen exhaust fan

As home inspectors, we come across many variations of kitchen exhaust fans, with just as many questions regarding kitchen exhaust. Some vents exhaust to the exterior, some recirculate, and sometimes kitchen exhaust vents are just nonexistent.

 Are kitchen exhaust fans required?

There are no requirements in the International Mechanical Code requiring exhaust fans in residential kitchens. There are, however, requirements for the installation of exhaust fans. Section 505 explains these requirements.

 Although not required, kitchen exhaust fans are a good idea and should exhaust to the outside (exterior) of your home. Even the best cooks can burn something on the stove or create a meal that has some pretty strong odors!

 My wife and I learned from a recent new-home build that proper sizing is important when choosing a kitchen exhaust fan. My wife showed me a model that could run at 900 cfm. We thought that bigger was better, as the kitchen, dining room, and great room were all one big space. When we got the quote back from the HVAC contractor, there was a line item for a $3,600 make-up air system on the bid. We asked about this, and the contractor shared that the code requires make-up air for anything over 400 cfm. Because the exhaust fan we chose was so powerful, the make-up air system had to also be able to heat or condition the make-up air. We returned the unit and found a fan that was below the make-up air requirement.

 Ductless or ducted?

Exhaust fans come in two types of systems; they can either be ducted or ductless (recirculating). Most over-the-stove microwaves are equipped with an exhaust fan, and they generally have the option to be installed as either ducted or ductless.

 A ducted system vents the exhaust to the exterior of your home. A ducted system should not exhaust kitchen air into the attic space because any moisture in that air can potentially create serious issues. Ductless (recirculating) systems draw the air from immediately above the stove and vent it directly back into the kitchen environment.

 Our home inspectors look for vent terminations on the exterior roof or wall when inspecting the exterior of the home. A ductless system has a fan that circulates the air through a filter and returns it to the room. The downside of a ductless system is that if you burn something or have strong odors, they are not removed from the living space.

 Summary

Even though exhaust fans are not required, our home inspectors will note on the home inspection report whether or not the exhaust fan in the kitchen is venting to the exterior or not. We will also note if there is no exhaust fan on the home inspection report and explain to our clients the importance of a proper exhaust fan to keep the air inside your home clean and safe.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to look for and report any potential ventilation issues. Any issues are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Extension Cord Safety

My home inspector called out the use of extension cords as permanent wiring on my home inspection report. This seems like a bit of a stretch as far as defects go, but we see overuse and improper use of extension cords at home inspections more than you would think.

 Variety of extension cord sizes and lengths

We see extension cords used a lot in utility rooms and garages where there may be just one or two outlets. That may have been adequate when the home was built, but now your utility room has a power vent water heater, a water softener, a wireless router, a modem, and the washing machine. Hey, they have these fancy adapters, so why not use them? Just use an extension cord and plug everything in.

 Our home inspectors see power strips plugged into extension cords with multiple devices plugged into them. In older garages, a homeowner may run an extension cord up to the ceiling with a power strip attached, with both garage door openers plugged into the power strip.

Multiple cords plugged into duplex with a 6-plex adapter

Every year in this country, there are around 3300 fires in homes due to the use of extension cords. Of these 3300 fires, around 50 people were killed, with another 270 injured. Improper use of extension cords can cause them to overheat, resulting in a fire.

 Extension cord safety guidelines

·         Avoid plugging extension cords together. Use an appropriate length to get to where you have to go.

·         Extension cords are for temporary use only.  Do not use them in place of permanent wiring.

·         Confirm the proper extension cord ratings. Don’t use indoor-rated extension cords outdoors.

·         Make sure that the extension cord is rated for the required power needs.

·         Outdoor extension cords should be free of snow and standing water.

·         Have additional outlets installed in areas where you rely on extension cords to meet your power needs.

·         Always inspect extension cords for damage before using them.

·         Do not use extension cords that are missing their ground prong. Sometimes people cut the ground plug so they can use a 2-prong outlet.

·         Do not staple, nail, or otherwise secure power cords to walls, ceilings, rafters, baseboards, etc.

·         Do not run extension cords under rugs or carpet, through walls or floors, or into attic spaces through the ceiling.

·         Extension cords without independent safety ratings should be discarded.

·         Do not use extension cords for auxiliary heaters. They draw a lot of power and may cause the cord to overheat.

·         Make sure you are not using interior extension cords for outdoor use.

·          Follow safety protocol when using extension cords outdoors

Amperage limits for extension cords

Always choose an extension cord that meets your needs. There is no use dragging out a 100-foot extension cord if you only need 25 feet. Ensure that the cord you use will handle the amperage needs for the task at hand. Using a 100-foot 16-gauge cord for an air compressor that draws 20 amps may result in overheating and damage to the extension cord, not to mention the potential for fire. Below are some guidelines for choosing an extension cord:

 ·         25- to 50-foot extension cords

16 Gauge (1-15 Amps)          

14 Gauge (14–15 Amps)

12 Gauge (16–20 Amps)

 ·         50- to 100-foot extension cords

16 Gauge (1–10 Amps)

14 Gauge (11–13 Amps)

12 Gauge (14–15 Amps)

10 Gauge (16–20 Amps)

 ·         100- to 150-foot extension cords

14 Gauge (1–7 Amps)

12 Gauge (8–10 Amps)

10 Gauge (11–15 Amps)

 Summary

Extension cords are handy and safe when used properly. Unfortunately, they can sometimes become a permanent solution due to the lack of adequate outlets in garages, utility rooms, or outdoors.

 When performing a home inspection, our home inspectors are on the lookout for extension cords used as permanent wiring. At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Air Leakage in Your Home

Owning a home can be expensive. There always seems to be something to fix, repair, or replace. The list of monthly expenses can add up in a hurry, and utility bills can be a big part of those monthly expenses.

 The illustration above demonstrates the common areas of air infiltration into and out of a home.

Focusing on energy efficiency in your home can add up to savings. People usually catch the easy ones, like shutting off lights, pulling shades or curtains to keep the sun out, and trying not to waste water. Some of these issues may be pointed out by your home inspector during the course of a home inspection.

 Air Leakage Explained

One of the least understood energy wasters in a home is air leakage. These are all of those little gaps, cracks, seals, and openings in your home that let air leak into and out of the conditioned space of your home. It may not seem like much, but every little bit of air leakage adds up to wasted energy and, in extreme cases, difficulty keeping some areas of your home comfortable.

 Energy efficiency methods in home construction have advanced greatly over the years. We have all heard about how “tight” new homes are. This is a result of products like house wraps, foam sealants, and even things as benign as the electrical boxes that house switches, lights, and outlets. Newer construction does a far better job at addressing air leakage than homes built in the past when energy was cheap.

 Common Areas for Air Leaks

Windows, doors, exterior wall penetrations, light fixtures in the ceiling, as well as ducts, fireplaces, pet doors, and vents, are some of the most common areas where air leakage can occur in your home.

 By performing an inspection on your home, many of these troubled areas can be discovered. Obviously, if you see a gap between your front door and its frame, it is an air leak and should be resolved. Weather stripping can be either added or replaced to seal these kinds of gaps. Sometimes you may notice that curtains move slightly when the wind blows. Inspecting your windows for air leaks and repairing them can add up to a lot of savings.

 There are some areas in your home, however, where air leaks are not so easy to see. One option is to hire a specialist who can perform a blower door test to evaluate your home’s energy efficiency. The process of a blower door test places an insert in a doorway that contains a fan that pulls a suction on the house. This allows the technician to calculate the air loss based on pressure differentials. Using other tools, such as an infrared camera, will help the technician locate areas where outside air is being drawn into the home. A visual home inspection by the blower door technician may also uncover problem areas.

 Blower door installed at the front door of a home

Low-Air Leakage Pros and Cons

Reducing uncontrolled air leakage will save you money. In the summer, when it is hot and humid, air leakage allows hot air to come into the house and the cool, conditioned air to leak out. Under these conditions, your air conditioning has to work extra hard to maintain the ideal temperatures in your home. In the wintertime, the cold air gets in and the heated air escapes. The end result in either case is higher energy bills and added wear and tear on your air conditioning and heating equipment.

 An airtight home improves your energy efficiency and helps you save money. Reducing air leakage means that your home maintains a pleasant, comfortable environment with fewer fluctuations in temperature.

 In humid areas of the country, the continuous drawing of moist air into a home can lead to potential mold issues that can affect the health of the home’s occupants. If the moisture intrusion is severe and continuous, it can result in interior damage within the walls and costly repairs.

 One of the biggest concerns about an airtight home that has been realized over the years is the decrease in natural ventilation. With reduced ventilation, airborne particles, dust, mold, and germs can build up inside the home, creating poor air quality. Sometimes this can become extreme enough to create what is called a “sick home.” This is obviously a legitimate concern and must be balanced to optimize energy efficiency and not compromise the healthy air within the home.

 Proper ventilation is important when it comes to airtight homes. A concept that builders use is “Build Tight, Ventilate right.” There are two systems that are used in new construction that help to maintain proper ventilation within a home. Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRV) and Energy Recovery Ventilators (ERV) are systems that manage the air exchange within the home by pulling fresh air from the outside and expelling stale air from the inside.

 Maintaining this equipment is crucial to its proper operation. Our home inspectors commonly find HRVs and ERVs that are either poorly maintained or, in some cases, have never been maintained. The filters and the heat exchangers may have dust and insects built up to a point where the system is nearly or completely plugged. Again, this is wasting energy as well as creating wear and tear on the system. Poorly maintained systems are called out as in need of attention on our home inspection reports.

 Summary

Uncontrolled air leakage into and out of your home can be costly and inefficient. Performing a visual home inspection will uncover some of the more obvious issues within your home. If you want to fine-tune and optimize the heating and cooling efficiency of your home, you may want to hire a professional to perform a blower door test.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. When performing a home inspection, our home inspectors are looking for obvious issues regarding air leakage. These areas of concern will be documented on your home inspection report and recommended for resolution.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Window Screen Maintenance Tips

Window screens are an essential part of a home in most areas of the country. During moderate weather, they allow you to open your windows and let the breeze flow through while keeping debris and insects out. Unfortunately, screens are one of those components that are sometimes poorly or improperly maintained.

 Removing a window screen from its frame

 Window screens take a lot of abuse. Over time, cobwebs, dirt, pollen, and bugs can accumulate. The weather and sun can also take their toll on the components of the screens. An annual inspection of your home’s exterior, plus some cleaning and maintenance, will help to keep your home’s window screens in good condition and working properly.

 Window Screen Dos and Don’ts

For the most part, window screens are pretty sturdy and have few moving parts. Annual maintenance and a few basic guidelines will help keep your window screens clean and looking good.

 Things you should do:

·         Anything big that attaches to your window screens should be removed immediately. Large cobwebs, leaves, or bird “exhaust” should be cleaned off sooner rather than later. Some window screen materials can be prone to rust or mold if left unchecked. It will also make annual cleaning easier.

 ·         Choose the proper cleaning supplies. Window screens can be made of metal, nylon, or fiberglass. Choosing the proper cleaning detergent and methods will help protect your window screens and aid in cleaning.

 ·         Repair versus replacement can cause some confusion. If your window screen has a small hole or tear, it can be repaired with a window screen repair kit. If the frame is fine but the screen material has large damage, have the window screen material replaced.

 Damaged window screen

 Things you should not do:

·         Do not use a pressure washer. The force from a pressure washer is too strong, even at its lowest setting, for most window screen materials. The pressure will prematurely wear the window screen materials and/or the frame.

·         Stay away from harsh cleaning solutions or chemicals. A mild soap solution, vinegar, and warm water will handle most cleaning needs on your window screens.

 Remove Your Window Screens for Winter

People rarely open their windows during the winter months. Even if they are opened, the chances of bugs and debris are less likely when it’s freezing outside. Winter weather can also be damaging to your window screens. High winds, sleet, and ice can damage your window screens.

 It is best to remove your window screens in the late fall to protect them from exposure to the harsh winter elements. Removing your window screens also helps brighten the interior of your home during the months that experience the least natural light.

 How to Clean Window Screens

After a long spring and summer, your window screens can be a bit dirty. Inspecting, cleaning, and maintaining your window screens in late fall is the best. They performed their job diligently through spring, summer, and early fall to keep debris and insects out. Taking care of this chore now allows you to store your window screens when they are clean and ready for spring.

 Things you need:

·         Large beach or bath towels

·         Vacuum cleaner with soft brush attachment

·         Bucket of warm soapy water or a mixture of white vinegar and water

·         Sponge or washcloth

·         Garden hose with spray attachment

 Cleaning steps:

·         Vacuum your window screens. Remove the window screen and lay it on a large towel. This will help protect your window screen from damage and scratches. Use the vacuum with a brush attachment to gently vacuum debris from both sides of the window screen as well as the frame and edges.

 Take the time to vacuum out the window frame. There can be a lot of debris buildup that, over time, can make it difficult to remove and replace the window screen. Use soap and water to remove anything left behind after vacuuming.

Dirt and debris on the window screen and frame

 ·         Wipe down your window screens. Use that bucket of warm, soapy water and a sponge. Even after vacuuming, there will be a lot of dirt on your screens. Change out your soap and water as needed; it’s going to get dirty a lot faster than you think. I have found that dish soap works really well for cleaning window screens.

 Keep in mind that all the gunk and debris you are vacuuming and washing away is the stuff your window screens kept from getting inside your home!

 ·         Rinse your window screens. After everything is cleaned, gently rinse your window screens. It works best if you can lean them up against something vertically. Make sure you rinse all debris and residue from the window screens to prevent any buildup. Keep the water pressure low and avoid aggressive spraying to prevent damage to your window screens.

 ·         Dry your window screens. As you are drying your window screens, make sure to do a thorough inspection for any missed debris or damage. Use a towel to gently pat down and dry your window screens, or if you have a nice sunny area, it’s ok to let them air dry. After everything is dry, store your window screens somewhere out of the elements until spring.

 Summary

Annual inspection, cleaning, and winter storage will help keep your window screens performing at their best for you for years to come. Taking care of this maintenance chore in the late fall will give you a leg up on your spring cleaning chores.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Deferred maintenance and damage to your window screens can turn a relatively simple project into a more serious repair when left unchecked. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Maintenance Checklist for Summer

Summer is a time for fun and family. You want to make the most of your time and not spend it working around the house. It always seems that there are other priorities. Attending to your summer home maintenance checklist early will save you time, money, and headaches down the road. Below are a few maintenance items you may want to consider to better protect your home.

 Indoor Maintenance

 ·        Clean, inspect, and reverse the rotation of your ceiling fans.

Dusting your fans regularly will help them better move the air in your home. Inspect your fans for dust buildup, loose blades, vibrations, and wobbling. Wobbling will add additional stress to the motor fan bearings, resulting in increased wear.

 Be sure that your fan blades are rotating counterclockwise in the summer, pushing the air towards the floor. This can help reduce the room temperature by up to 8 degrees. In the winter, you want to change the fans to turn in a clockwise rotation.

·        Inspect for leaks at your doors and windows.

Reducing energy bills and your impact on the environment should be a goal for every homeowner. Allowing your conditioned indoor air to leak out is bad for your energy efficiency. Inspect the seals and weatherstripping on your doors and windows. If you are a DIYer, replace or repair as needed, or call a window contractor.

 ·        Clean your air ducts and vents.

Perform an inspection of all exhaust fans, ventilation systems, dryer exhaust, and your HVAC air ducts and returns. Over time, dust builds up, restricts flow, and ultimately reduces efficiency and increases energy consumption. Clean ducts and vents help to aid efficient exhaust and improve the circulation of the air in your home.

 ·        Inspect and test your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.

Regular upkeep and inspection of your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors helps ensure your family’s safety. Replace batteries when needed, and if your smoke detectors are more than 10 years old, they should be replaced.

 Outdoor Maintenance

·        Service your air conditioner.

It’s a good idea to have your air conditioning system serviced annually. There is nothing worse than coming home on a hot and humid day to find your air conditioner has stopped working. Emergency service calls can be expensive, and you may have to wait a day or two to get someone to your home for repairs. Periodic cleaning and care of your condensate line will help prevent overflows into your home. Having your system maintained regularly can save you headaches and money in the long run.

 ·        Inspect your home’s siding and trim.

The seasons can take a toll on your siding and trim. Making any necessary repairs, sealing up cracks and openings, and removing mold and dirt from your siding will increase its life. Using a pressure washer and products specific to cleaning your siding will make this job easier. In addition to curb appeal, keeping your siding maintained will help protect your home from the elements.

·        Clean your gutters and downspouts.

This is not a fun job, especially if your home has more than one level. Gutters and downspouts play a key role in directing water away from your home. If you are not comfortable doing this yourself, hire a professional.

 ·        Spruce up your landscaping.

Replace any shrubs or plants that may have been damaged due to the winter or drought. Trim all branches and limbs away from your home so that they do not rub on the shingles or siding. Check branches on trees for damage and trim or remove them if necessary. Bigger projects should be left to professionals if they are close to power lines, fences, or other structures. Proper landscaping can also keep bugs and critters away from your home. If you find any insect infestations in your landscaping, call a professional to resolve the problem.

 Summary

Your home is probably your most important asset. Keeping your home’s systems maintained and properly functioning will manage costs and keep your home looking good.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Deferred maintenance can turn a relatively simple project into a more serious repair if left unchecked. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

The Importance of Egress Windows

Most people, including Realtors, have heard about egress windows. Unfortunately, these safety features are often misunderstood.

 Egress window and window well

 We sometimes hear that a basement bedroom may be “non-conforming” due to the lack of a method of egress. What exactly is egress? The dictionary defines egress as “the action of going out of or leaving a place.” In a residential environment, proper egress means that an occupant has a safe and accessible way to evacuate a space, usually through a window.

 This subject comes up with clients regarding basement bedrooms during the course of a home inspection, usually with older homes built before egress requirements were set in place. Sometimes, basements that were meant for storage have had a bedroom added, and there is no safe egress from the room.

 Not having proper egress from a basement is a safety concern. You want to make sure that anyone dwelling in that space has a safe and accessible escape to the outdoors in the event of a fire or other type of emergency.

 Why are egress windows necessary?

The main reason for egress windows is safety. Egress windows allow people to get safely out of a home and emergency services, such as firefighters, to access the home. Egress windows also provide natural light and allow for fresh air and ventilation in a basement space.

 Egress windows in a basement are important as an alternative escape from the structure. If there were a fire that obstructed the basement stairwell, an egress window would allow you to safely exit the building. The International Residential Code requires that there be a minimum of one egress window per bedroom and living space.

 What is a proper egress window?

The minimum requirements for basement egress windows are spelled out in Sections R310 of the International Residential Code, Emergency Escape and Rescue Openings.

 ·         The egress escape must lead to a yard, public space, or courtyard.

·         The egress exit must be operable from inside the room without tools or specialized knowledge.

·         The opening width shall be a minimum of 20 inches.

·         The opening height shall be a minimum of 24 inches.

·         The bottom edge of the opening must be no greater than 44 inches from the floor.

·         The “net clear” opening of the exit shall be at least 5.7 square feet.

 Since basements are partially or fully underground, egress windows will generally exit into a window well. The IRC spells out specific requirements that window wells must also meet. Section R310.4 addresses these specifications for area wells.

 ·         The horizontal area of the window well shall be at least 9 square feet.

·         The horizontal projection of the window well shall be at least 36 inches.

·         The window well shall allow for the window to be fully opened.

·         Window wells greater than 44 inches deep shall have a permanent ladder or steps.

·         Window wells shall have proper drainage and must tie into the foundation tile system.

·         Bars, covers, grills, or screens must be removable without tools or specialized knowledge.

·         Bars, covers, grills, or screens must meet the net-clear opening requirement of 9 square feet.

 Summary

Egress windows and window wells are an important part of keeping your home safe. Making sure that you keep any egress windows clear, maintained, and properly functioning will help to keep your family safe in the event they need to get safely out of a basement.

 When performing a home inspection, our inspectors review any egress windows and window wells if they are part of the home.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Potential Dangers of Lead-Based Paint in Your Home

As with many products used in our homes in the past, we find over time that there may be potential health issues related to exposure. Lead is toxic; we all know that. Over time, efforts have been made to eliminate the use of lead and educate people on the potential hazards of exposure to lead and lead-based paint.

 Peeling paint on door and walls

 For many years, lead-based paints were the standard in homes across the country. It was a good product, and it was durable. As we learned about the health hazards associated with exposure to lead-based paint, we started to eliminate its use in homes. Lead paint was banned in 1978, so if your home was built before that, you may very well have lead-based paint in your home.

 Why was lead added to paint?

Occurring naturally, lead is a metal element in our earth’s crust. Lead is toxic and can result in serious health-related issues for humans and animals, such as your pets.

 Lead is number 82 on the periodic table of elements

 Lead also has many desirable characteristics and benefits. Lead is highly malleable, ductile, and resists corrosion. Lead was used in many products in and around homes in the early 1900s. Lead was used to make water pipes, waste pipes, solder, paint, flashings, and cosmetics.

 Lead was added to paint to give it a quicker drying time, durability, help prevent moisture-related corrosion, and provide a lasting, shiny new appearance.

 Lead is a proven health hazard.

Lead has been shown to contribute to several health-related issues that can damage the nervous system, kidneys, brain, and reproductive system in humans. Children and pregnant women are at the highest risk of health-related issues from lead exposure. Lead can also stunt growth and development in children.

 The body of a child will absorb more lead than that of a fully grown adult, according to the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency). Also, children are more likely to put an object in their mouth. Some of these objects in older homes may have the potential to contain lead. Paint chips, for some reason, seem to be something that a child will put in their mouth, chew, and swallow. As we discovered the negative effects of lead-based paint exposure, the government stepped in.

 Lead-based paint is banned.

The government banned consumer use of lead-based paint in 1978. If you have a home built before 1978, it is likely that there is lead-based paint in your home.

 Statistics show that 87% of homes built before 1940 have a high likelihood of having lead-based paint. That number is 69% for homes built between 1940 and 1959 and 24% for homes built between 1960 and 1977.

 Older homes that have been updated or renovated more than likely have several coats of lead-free or latex paint over the top of the old lead-based paint. We tell our home inspection clients that as long as you do not disturb the old lead-based paint, you will be fine. However, if they engage in a home renovation project or decide to strip the paint off of the old wood trim, they need to do their research, take proper precautions, or hire a professional.

 The EPA has published a guide, Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home, that will help you understand the risks associated with lead in your home.

 In 1992, Congress passed the Residential Lead-Based Paint Hazard Reduction Act. This set of laws requires that known information regarding lead-based paint or lead-based paint hazards be disclosed as part of the sale or lease of a home if the home was built before 1978.

 This bill states that landlords or home sellers are required to meet certain requirements as a result of a sale or lease:

 ·         Provide the EPA’s guide regarding lead-based paint.

·         Disclose any known lead-based paint hazards.

·         Provide any historical records or reports of the home’s lead-based paint hazards.

·         Provide a signed and dated attachment stating that the home seller or landlord has complied with all lead-related requirements as a part of any contract or lease.

·         Sellers must allow potential buyers adequate time to conduct lead testing if requested.

 Summary

Lead-based paint is a potential hazard to you and your family. Taking the proper precautions when performing any remodeling is key and can be managed.

 Although lead-based paint testing is outside of the scope of an inspection, testing can be added for an additional fee. When performing a home inspection, our inspectors will address any questions regarding lead-based paint and guide our clients to seek out the education and precautions necessary in the event of any remodeling questions.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Understanding R-Values for Varying Insulation Products

Proper insulation in your home will keep you warmer in the cold months, cool in the hot months, and can save you money. Understanding R-values and applying that knowledge to your home can help you optimize your home’s energy efficiency.

 The EPA calculates that a typical homeowner can save up to 15% on annual heating and cooling costs by applying insulation and sealing their home in the right areas. You can check out the EPA Energy Star site to understand why you may want to seal and insulate, energy efficiency methodologies, and defining problem areas.

 As with most products, there are several different types of insulation available for almost every application and scenario. Using the right product to optimize the R-value is the key to increasing energy efficiency.

Explaining R-Value

The R-value associated with insulation products is a rating given with respect to the insulation’s resistance to heat flow. What that means is how well the insulation prevents the movement of heat flowing into or out of your home.

 Higher temperatures move to lower temperatures, so that means we want to keep the heat from escaping from our homes in the colder months and from getting into our homes in the hotter months. Insulation and its R-value play a big part in controlling that energy flow. The higher the R-value, the higher the resistance to heat flow, which leads to better performance.

 Choosing the best product

Depending on whether you live in the northern part of the country or in the south, R-value recommendations will vary. Choosing the right product to meet your needs and meet recommended R-values is not a one-size-fits-all solution.

 The United States Department of Energy has developed recommendations for the types of products and recommended R-values across several regions of the country. In general, this means that what is required for International Falls, Minnesota, will be different from Miami, Florida. The map below shows regional R-value recommendations.

R-Value recommendation map sourced from EPA Energy Star

 Within each zone, there are R-value recommendations for specific systems in the home. Attics will have a higher R-value recommendation than floors, for example. The chart below has the specific recommendations for each of these zones as shown on the map above.

 R-Value recommendations for specific home systems – homedepot.com

 By using the guidance above, you can make decisions on materials for your next insulation project or confirm that the systems in your home are adequately insulated.

 Typical insulation types and R-value ratings

 Blown-in or loose-fill insulation

This type of insulation is typically an attic application. The insulation materials are loaded into a machine that mixes and fluffs them up so they can be blown into an attic space. This process allows for access to hard-to-reach areas and is relatively cost-effective. Fiberglass and cellulose are the primary materials used for this process.

 Blown-in fiberglass insulation application

 Fiberglass loose-fill insulation is primarily glass that is spun to make the fibers that make up the loose fill. Fiberglass insulation resists moisture absorption, which helps to resist mold, mildew, and other fungal issues. It does not do much with respect to air leakage or the sealing of gaps or openings. Fiberglass loose-fill insulation averages an R-value of R-2.2 to R-3.8 per inch of application.

 Cellulose loose-fill insulation is made up of recycled cardboard and newspaper, which is additionally treated with chemicals that make it resistant to fire, rodents, and other pests. Cellulose insulation works well to settle in and combat air leakage. In studies using blower door testing, cellulose loose-fill insulation has one of the highest resistances to air leakage.

 Cellulose is a bit less DIY-friendly. It is harder to install and very dusty. Over time, the product settles, which reduces its overall R-value. Cellulose R-values tend to be higher than fiberglass’s, ranging from R-3.2 to R-4.0 per inch.

 Airborne particles from both fiberglass and cellulose can pose a health hazard to people when they are installing them. As with all products, installers should make sure they are using the recommended PPE (personal protective equipment) when installing.

 Insulation Blankets

Insulation blankets are typically the most inexpensive insulation options. Commonly referred to as “batts,” this product comes in rolls that can be cut to the desired length. Batts are also designed to fit between wall studs, attic joists, or floor joists, come in varying thicknesses, and are typically made of fiberglass. Insulation blankets are DIY-friendly and easy to install.

 Fiberglass batts come either with or without a vapor barrier attached to them. The downside to fiberglass batts is consistent installation, especially around the edges and corners. R-values for insulation blankets range from R-2.9 to R-4.3 per inch of thickness.

 Fiberglass insulation installed in a wall structure

 Spray Foam

Spray foam insulation is designed to both insulate and reduce air leakage. This product is sprayed into place, where it expands, seals, and hardens. Spray foam installation requires specialized equipment and is not typically a DIY application. Spray foam works well in most applications. The downside is that it is one of the most expensive alternatives, but it has a higher payoff in the long run. R-values for spray foam range from R-3.5 to R-6.5 per inch, depending on whether it is an open- or closed-cell product.

 Installing spray foam to a wall structure

 Foam Board Insulation

Foam board insulation, like spray foam, has a high resistance to heat flow and leakage. The tight pore structure of foam board makes it resistant to moisture intrusion. We typically see this type of foam installed on the perimeter of basement walls. Foam board insulation typically comes in 4x8-foot rectangular sheets that are easy to work with and cut to size. While providing high R-values, foam board insulation does not do a very good job of sealing cracks or openings. It has R-values that range from R-4.0 to R-6.5 per inch of thickness.

 Summary

Insulation is an important component that can save you money while protecting you from outdoor temperatures. Choosing the right product for your needs is important when updating or replacing insulation in your home.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. When performing a home inspection, our home inspectors observe and document the type and approximate depth of the insulation where it is accessible. Recommendations are made depending on our findings.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Understanding GFCI Outlets

GFCI outlets. We see them in our homes, but few people understand what they are, how they work, or why they are there. GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter.

 A GFCI outlet with test and reset buttons

 The Shocking Details

I know that during the course of my life, I’ve had my share of electrical shocks, more in my youth than later in life. It could be for a couple of reasons, like because I’m less careless or because our home’s electrical systems have some safeguards we didn’t have when I was a kid.

 A GFCI is a device within an electrical circuit that will disconnect or interrupt the circuit in the event that an unbalanced current, or fault, is detected between the hot conductor and the neutral conductor. This imbalance may be caused, for example, by current traveling through a person who has come into contact with the circuit and is in contact with the ground. A GFCI will trip and break the circuit with as little as 5 milliamps of imbalance.

 Most shocks are minor and usually don’t result in injury or, worse, death. Your muscles usually react to the shock, causing you to jump or jerk, thus breaking the circuit. In some cases, though, a shock can be much more serious, resulting in tissue damage and burns. In the worst case, an electrical shock can cause heart failure or death.

 GFCIs Explained

The sole purpose of a GFCI outlet is to protect people and reduce the risk of electrical shocks. GFCIs are different from the circuit breakers in an electrical panel. Circuit breakers are designed to protect against circuit overload and will trip if there is too much current running through the circuit. Too much current may result in the wiring overheating and causing a fire.

 A GFCI outlet has an internal circuit that measures the balance of the current amperage flowing into and out of the circuit. If this circuitry detects a difference in the power on the hot side versus what is returning on the neutral side, the GFCI will trip instantaneously, thus interrupting the power to that circuit.

 GFCI outlet diagram

 If you accidentally become part of that circuit, the GFCI will detect an imbalance between the hot and neutral (because the power is traveling through you), creating a fault. It will trip the circuit. If you are being shocked, a standard breaker may or may not trip quick enough to save your life. The Consumer Products Safety Commission has provided this GFCI Fact Sheet for additional information.

 GFCI Requirements

The National Electrical Code began requiring GFCIs in certain applications as far back as 1968. Over the years, GFCI requirements have included kitchens, bathrooms, laundry areas, unfinished basement spaces, garages, and exterior electrical applications. Most recently, GFCI requirements have included some appliances such as sump pumps, water heaters, and washing machines. Basically, if there is the potential to come into contact with water, a GFCI is required. For more information, you can refer to the 2020 Minnesota Electrical Codes and Standards.

 GFCI Outlets and Home Inspections

GFCIs come up for discussion at most home inspections. Our home inspectors document where GFCIs are located in the home as well as where they should be located. We also test and reset all GFCIs to make sure they operate properly. If a GFCI is defective or missing, we document this in your home inspection report.

 One of the topics of discussion in older homes is the lack of GFCIs at the proper locations. The question is usually whether or not they are required because the house was built before GFCIs were invented or required. We typically call out the areas that should have GFCIs and stress that, for the relative cost versus the increased safety for your family, GFCIs should be added.

 Another issue is GFCIs that are old and will not trip, or, when a home inspector tests and trips the GFCI, it will not reset. This is also a hazard because the GFCI is there to provide protection. When GFCIs are exposed to high humidity or exterior elements, the contacts may corrode, resulting in a GFCI that may not do its job. Our home inspectors will share that GFCIs should be tested (tripped and reset periodically) to ensure they are operating properly.

 Summary

GFCI outlets are an important part of your home’s electrical system and provide a high level of safety as long as they are in the proper locations and operate properly. As a homeowner, you can do your part to ensure safe operation by taking the time to test your GFCIs and replace them if they are defective.

 At HomePro Inspections, we are trained and always look for these types of issues when inspecting a home. Any issues are documented and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Can Radon Gas Be an Issue in a Slab-On-Grade Home?

A common misconception is that you don’t have radon gas or need to do radon testing in slab-on-grade homes. After all, it doesn’t have a basement, right? How could there possibly be radon gas entering your home?

 Building-induced suction (courtesy: internachi.org)

 One of the forces that drives radon gas into your home is what is called building-induced suction. Your home sucks, literally! Bathroom and kitchen exhaust vents, furnaces, water heaters, and clothes dryers all pull air from your home. In addition, weather, wind, and external temperature can affect the pressure in your home. Basically, your home acts like a chimney. Warm air in your home rises and leaks out of the building envelope. Soil gases and radon gases can be drawn into your home through the foundation, whether it is a slab on grade, a crawl space, or a full basement. That concrete slab is porous, may have cracks, and there are openings for plumbing, electrical, and other utilities.

 The fact is that a home built on a slab puts you and your family closer to the source of radon gas. It’s like living in your basement. Radon gas enters your home where your slab comes into contact with the soil. Radon gas doesn’t care one bit if your home’s slab is at grade or 8 feet below grade.

 Radon gas is not only found in basements.

Radon gas is colorless, odorless, and tasteless. Radon gas is naturally occurring as a byproduct of the breakdown of radium in the soils around and under your home. According to the US EPA, radon gas is the second-leading cause of lung cancer, right behind smoking.

 Radon levels can be higher in homes with a basement because, in addition to the slab, you also have soil contact with the basement walls. The closer your living area is to the soil, the higher the potential for exposure to higher levels of radon gas.

 For example, if you live in a home built on a full basement but spend most of your time living on the main floor and maybe sleeping upstairs, your exposure to radon gas is lower. Radon gas continues to break down after entering your home. It is also diluted and dissipates as it moves upward to the upper levels. If you live in a slab-on-grade home, you do not have that buffer, and that radon gas is entering right into your living space.

 All homes have the potential for radon gas.

In Olmsted County and surrounding areas in Minnesota, 50% of the homes have elevated levels of radon gas. All homes are prone to radon gas, and no single home design or style is inherently better than another.

 In 2009, codes required that all new homes be built radon-resistant. At a minimum, passive radon gas mitigation systems are in place. Simply put, this passive radon mitigation system, or radon gas-resistant system, will capture radon gas and route it safely from under your home to the atmosphere. Having a passive radon gas mitigation system in a home does not ensure that radon gas levels are not elevated. Even on a slab-on-grade home, the radon gas in the soil can be greater than what a passive radon gas mitigation system can remove from beneath the slab.

 Testing is the only way to know your radon gas level.

Just because your home has a passive radon mitigation system does not mean you should not test or that radon gas levels are low in your slab-on-grade home.

 For example, I built a slab-on-grade home in 2017. This home was built to be radon-resistant and had a passive radon mitigation system installed at construction. Over the course of a year, I tested the radon levels in the home in the spring, summer, fall, and winter. The radon gas levels in the home averaged anywhere from 3.2 p/Ci/l to 4.1 pCi/L (picocuries per liter), with winter having the highest radon gas levels and summer the lowest. We added a fan to the passive radon mitigation system to make it an active radon mitigation system. After installation, the winter radon gas average in the home was 0.8 pCi/L.

 The action level for radon gas is 4.0 pCi/l or greater. This means that the EPA recommends the installation of a radon gas mitigation system to reduce radon gas levels in your home. It is not possible to reduce radon gas completely. For reference, the average radon gas level in the outside environment is 0.4 pCi/L.

 Testing for radon gas with an electronic continuous radon monitor

 Summary

Radon gas can enter your home regardless of the construction type, and measures should be taken to make your home radon gas resistant. The only way to know for sure is to test your home for radon gas levels. Radon gas testing can be added to any home inspection or performed as a stand-alone service.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Having a properly installed and maintained radon gas mitigation system will protect you and your family from unnecessary exposure to high radon gas levels. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Spring Home Maintenance Checklist

Spring weather seems like it’s just around the corner—if it hasn’t arrived already. Take advantage of the moderate temperatures to get a head start on what should be an annual spring home maintenance routine and the benefits it can provide. Most of these items are fairly straight-forward and relatively easy to perform. If you are unsure or need additional guidance, you can find a video for most anything online. Make sure to watch a few videos to find what works best for you.

Your home inspector may have addressed some of these home maintenance items and listed them on your home inspection report. Use the list below to guide you, and remember that consistent home maintenance will protect your home for years to come.

 Exterior

Roof

·         Inspect the roof (with binoculars) for damage, lifted or missing shingles, and damaged flashing.

·         Check the gutters and downspouts for debris.

 Chimney

·         Check for any loose bricks or flashing.      

·         Have any wood-burning appliances professionally inspected and cleaned.

 Exterior Walls

·         Check the walls for damage and loose materials.

·         Caulk or repair cracks and openings.

·         Repair and paint any loose paint, exposed wood, or trim.

·         Check all hose faucets for operation.

·         Inspect and remove lint and debris from all external vents and air intakes.

·         Check and replace any exterior lighting.

 Deck

·         Inspect and repair any deteriorated wood, displaced or loose boards, supports, or railings.

·         Inspect for any “springiness” in the structure.

 Foundation

·         Inspect for and repair any cracks or openings.

·         Ensure that the soil slopes away from the foundation.

·         Ensure that downspout discharge chutes are installed and directed away from the foundation.

 Interior

Windows

·         Check for cracked panes and loose or missing caulk.

·         Clean the windows, tracks, and frames of any dirt or debris.

·         Check all windows for proper operation and adjust as necessary.

 Kitchen

·         Clean refrigerator door gaskets and seals, and lubricate hinges. 

·         Vacuum the refrigerator and freezer condenser coils.

·         Check and repair appliance lights.

·         Inspect or replace the fire extinguisher.

 Plumbing

·         Check for leaks under kitchen, bathroom, and laundry sinks.

·         Check the water hoses on the washing machine for cracks, bulges, and leaks.

·         Check the water heater for leaks or corrosion.

 Interior

·         Repair nail pops, gouges, and cracks on your walls and ceilings.

·         Touch up paint chips and scratches on your walls, ceilings, and cabinets.

·         Inspect the basement perimeter walls for any signs of moisture.

·         Inspect and test your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and replace the batteries as necessary.

 Summary

 Keeping your home in tip-top shape doesn’t take a lot of time and money if you stay on top of your home maintenance items. This list is not all-inclusive, so if you see something that is not right, make sure to address it sooner rather than later. Your pride of ownership will show, and you will feel good knowing that your biggest investment is being properly taken care of.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to look for and report any potential home maintenance issues they may come across. Any issues are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Do I Really Need Gutters and Downspouts on My Home?

Although gutters and downspouts are a seemingly simple system, they have a pretty important job in protecting your home.

 Gutters and downspouts are on your home for a reason. Their job is to manage the water that runs off of your home’s roof. Proper attention and maintenance will go a long way toward protecting the structural integrity of your home’s foundation, not to mention keeping your basement dry.

 Gutter system clogged with leaves

How much water can flow off of a roof?

Have you ever watched the water run off the edge of your roof? It may not look like much when spread over the perimeter of your home. One of the “factoids” our home inspectors share with our clients is that 1 inch of rain on 1,000 square feet of surface area is nearly 625 gallons of water. Let’s just say you have 1,500 square feet of roof and we have a 2-inch rainfall; that’s a whopping 1,875 gallons of water dumping next to your foundation!

 Without gutters, the water running off of your roof pounds directly onto and erodes the soil next to your foundation. Dumping all of that water next to your foundation increases the risk of a wet or damp basement. In addition, saturated soils will expand more as the ground freezes in the winter, which can cause heaving or displacement of your foundation.

 The gutters and downspouts on your home are there to safely manage and control the runoff away from your home. Proper water management protects your home and yard by controlling the flow of water and preventing pooling and erosion next to your foundation.

 Clogged gutters full of water

 Gutters and downspouts need periodic maintenance.

Like most home systems, your gutters and downspouts need periodic maintenance. Clogged gutters and downspouts are as bad as not having them in the first place. Our home inspectors frequently call out maintenance issues with the gutters and downspouts. We see gutters full of leaves and sticks, which clog the system and allow water to flow over the edge. Water also weighs about 8 pounds per gallon, so if your gutters are full of water, you risk damage to your system due to the weight. It’s also important that the discharge chutes at the bottom of your downspouts are directing the water away from your foundation. Our home inspectors frequently find discharge chutes that are crushed or disconnected.

 Water pooling next to the foundation due to a missing discharge section

 Your gutters and downspouts should be cleaned at least twice a year. The best times are in the spring and then in the fall, after the trees have shed their leaves. Gutters that are full of debris in the winter can result in ice buildup and ice dams forming at the edge of your roof.

 Clogged and frozen gutters detached from the edge of the roof

 If you have the skills and can do it safely, you can maintain your gutters and downspouts yourself. You can also hire a professional gutter cleaning company to do it. The third option is to have a system installed that will prevent debris from entering and clogging your gutters and downspouts. These can either be installed on an existing system or purchased as a complete system. Click here to see a comparison of gutter guard systems.

 Summary

Your gutters and downspouts are an important part of your home. Keeping them maintained and properly functioning will manage water and protect your foundation and landscaping.

 When performing a home inspection, one of the items we look at are the gutters and downspouts on the home. Taking note of the condition of the gutter and downspout system will give your home inspector clues as to water management and whether or not there may be issues with moisture in the basement.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Having properly installed and maintained gutters and downspouts will help to protect your home from excessive water at your foundation. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Cleaning Your Refrigerator Condenser Coils in 5 Easy Steps

Your refrigerator is one of the hardest-working and most expensive appliances in your kitchen, so it’s only natural that you’d want it to run at peak performance and last as long as possible. Keeping your refrigerator condenser coils clean is a great way to meet both of these goals, and this simple task only takes about 10 to 15 minutes.

 Dirty refrigerator condenser coils at the base of a refrigerator

 The condenser coils are typically located on the back of or underneath a refrigerator. These coils are exposed to allow for air flow and heat dissipation. Over time, these coils can become clogged with dust and debris. Dirty refrigerator coils make your refrigerator work harder to stay cold, resulting in higher electric costs and reducing its lifespan.

Dirty refrigerator condenser coils on the back of a refrigerator

The good news is that cleaning your refrigerator’s condenser coils is a relatively simple DIY project. Your refrigerator coils should be cleaned at least once a year, or every six months if you have any furry pets in the home.

 Tools needed:

·         Flashlight

·         Dust mask

·         Condenser coil brush

·         Vacuum cleaner

 5 easy steps:

 1.    Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet. Depending on the location of the outlet, you may have to pull your refrigerator away from the wall. Keep your refrigerator doors closed to help keep its contents cold.

 2.    Locate the condenser coils. They are generally located either on the back side or under your refrigerator. If they are under, you will have to remove the toe grill.

 3.    Put on your dust mask to prevent inhaling any airborne dust you may stir up. Using your flashlight, inspect the condenser coils. Vacuum as much as you can with a narrow vacuum attachment.

 4.    Using a coil brush, work through the coils to loosen debris and dust. Hold the vacuum attachment close to the brush to keep dust to a minimum. The brush should be able to get to most of the coils. These brushes are usually bendable, and you may need to bend the tip to get at any hard-to-reach places.

 5.    Take a minute to inspect your work and vacuum up any lingering dust bunnies. Wipe down the toe grill and snap it back in place. Plug your refrigerator back into the wall outlet and roll it back in place.

Dirty toe grill at the front of the refrigerator

Keeping your refrigerator running at peak performance is as simple as performing a 15-minute cleaning once or twice a year. When you finish, grab a cold beverage for a job well done. Your refrigerator will use less energy and last longer. Pretty cool, huh? (See how I did that?)

 Summary

At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to look for and report any potential issues they may come across. Any issues are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Cleaning Your Air Conditioner Condensate Drain with Vinegar

One of the top reasons homeowners call for service on their air conditioning system is because of a clogged and overflowing condensate drain line. Most people don’t know that you can avoid this issue with some regular DIY maintenance on your air conditioner system. Usually, you can remove the clog and avoid overflows yourself. Below are some steps to help keep your air conditioner’s condensate line clear and avoid overflows.

 Air conditioner evaporator coil and condensate tray.

The blue plug is where the condensate drain is attached.

 What is a condensate drain line?

First, a little background is needed to help you better understand what an air conditioner condensate drain is. Inside the air handler, there is an evaporator coil that air passes through when your air conditioner is running. As the air passes through the coil, moisture will condense on the coils and drip into a tray. The condensate drain on this tray allows the water to run into the condensate drain line, which then, by gravity, channels the water, usually to a floor drain.

 Condensate drain line with capped access point.

 How do I know if my air conditioning condensate drain line is clogged?

The condensate tray and condensate drain line are both damp places when the AC is running. Water, when combined with dust and lint, can result in a sludge that builds up throughout the drain line over time. This sludge provides a great place for mold, mildew, algae, fungus, and bacteria to grow. Once there is a buildup, you have the potential for a blockage that will cause the water to back up and overflow the condensate tray. One indication that the condensate drain line is clogged is if you see water pooling around the bottom of the furnace.

 How do I prevent the condensate drain line from clogging?

Regular, routine cleaning can help keep the air conditioner drain line from clogging. By repeating the steps listed below, you can kill any mold, mildew, algae, moss, and bacteria.

 Our home inspectors will gladly discuss the air conditioning system with you if you are present during your home inspection. We will show you the condensate drain line and talk about maintenance and cleaning. Just like changing furnace filters and such, you should make cleaning your air conditioning drain line a part of your monthly maintenance schedule. Unfortunately, as is often the case, out of sight, out of mind.

 Adding distilled white vinegar or water to the condensate drain line using a funnel.

 Note: The white cylinder with the black wires in the picture above is an audible overflow alarm sensor at the condensate tray.

 Step-by-step guide

·        Turn your air conditioner off - Switch your thermostat and circuit breaker to the off position.

·        Locate your air conditioner drain line - The condensate drain line is usually a PVC pipe running vertically down the side of your furnace and over to a floor drain.

·        Find your drain access point - Most condensate drain lines have an opening at the top. If your condensate drain line has a cap, remove it. Check to see if there are any blockages.

·        Flush with distilled white vinegar – Pour 1/2 cup of distilled white vinegar down the condensate drain line at the access point. Distilled white vinegar increases acidity and aids in cleaning.

·        Wait 30 minutes, then flush with hot tap water – Flush the condensate drain line with a quart of hot tap water to ensure that everything drains and flows freely.

·        Repeat once a month – By avoiding clogs and buildup, your condensate drain line will work properly.

·        Turn your air conditioner on - Switch your thermostat and circuit breaker to the on position.

 Summary

Taking some time for preventative maintenance on your home and air conditioning system will keep it running and performing to meet your needs. Service calls to unclog an air conditioner condensate drain line are costly and avoidable. Potential damage from water overflowing into your home because of a clog can be eliminated by taking a few steps every month.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect your HVAC system and its components. Any issues are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Roofing Red Flags Found During Home Inspections

One of the most important considerations when purchasing a new home is the condition of the roof. The roof is a major part of the exterior envelope that protects your home from the weather and outdoor environment.

 A home inspector observing the roof from the eaves

 When performing a home inspection, our home inspectors do their best to assess the condition of the roof. Our home inspection Standards of Practice (SOP) states that the home inspector shall inspect from the ground or eaves. That’s right: ground or eaves. We are not required to walk the roof. Your home inspector may decide to walk the roof, but only if it is safe to do so. We want to have the best look at the roof, but sometimes ice, rain, snow, high winds, height, and roof pitch keep us off the roof.

 The cost of a roof replacement can be high, but the investment in a solid roof is well worth protecting your home. Roof leaks or a roof that is at or beyond its serviceable life may have leaks that can lead to water damage such as rot and mold.

 The following is a general list of red flags that your home inspector will look for when performing a roof inspection. Any issues will be documented in your home inspection report.

 Record of roof replacement

If there is a copy of the property disclosures available, your home inspector will review the document to see if there is a date listed when the roof was replaced. If not, we make our best attempt to determine an approximate age. Roofs over 20 years old should be monitored closely and replaced if they are nearing the end of their life span.

 Excessive moss and tree branches

On areas of your roof where the “sun doesn’t shine,” there is potential for moss growth. Moss can damage your roof and result in failure if it undermines the surface. Excessive moss should be professionally removed or treated to keep it from damaging your roof.

 Moss on a roofing surface

Tree branches should never come into contact with your roof surface. The wind will cause the branches to rub on the roof and wear away the granules on the shingles, causing premature failure of the roof surface.

 Missing or curling shingles

As shingles age, they can start to become brittle. The aggregate surface starts to deteriorate, and the substrate of the shingles is more exposed to sunlight. This can cause the edges to curl up, making your roof susceptible to wind damage. High winds can either snap off a shingle tab or whole sections of your roof.

 An extreme case of curled and patched shingles

 Previous roof repairs

If your home inspector sees prior patching or shingles that are replaced on a roof, this could mean that there were issues with installation, high winds, or aging of the roof surface.

 Moisture damage in the attic

A leak in a roofing system may lead to rot and deterioration to the structure or framing of your roofing system as well as the roof decking. These types of leaks may never get bad enough to present themselves on the ceiling, but they can lead to some major damage if undetected.

 Dark spots or paint patching

Moisture stains and areas on the ceiling that look like they’ve been painted over can be signs of past or present leaking. These types of leaks can indicate potential problems with water damage or mold in the materials on the other side of that paint.

 Summary

A solid roof is important to protect your home from the elements. Whether part of a home inspection or not, homeowners should take the time to look at their roofs at least seasonally. If any of these red flags present themselves, resolve them immediately.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect the roofing system of your home. Any issues are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.