Understanding and Measuring Air-Free CO in Furnaces

As a home inspector, ensuring the safety and health of a home is paramount. One critical aspect of this responsibility is measuring carbon monoxide (CO) levels in household furnaces. Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas that can pose serious health risks if not adequately monitored and controlled. In this blog, the home inspection specialists at HomePro Inspections will explore the importance of measuring air-free CO levels in furnaces, the methods for doing so, and why home inspectors must pay close attention to this aspect during home inspections.

 Air-free CO reading of 25 ppm

 What is Air-Free CO?

Air-free CO refers to the concentration of carbon monoxide in a furnace's flue gas, adjusted to remove the dilution effect of excess air. This measurement provides a more accurate indication of the CO levels produced solely by the combustion process, making it a crucial factor in assessing a furnace's safety and efficiency.

 The Importance of Measuring Air-Free CO

 Health Risks

Carbon monoxide is a hazardous gas that can cause a range of health issues, from mild headaches and dizziness to severe poisoning and even death. Because it is both colorless and odorless, CO can go undetected without proper monitoring. High levels of CO in a home can result from a malfunctioning furnace, making it essential to measure and control air-free CO levels to prevent health risks to inhabitants.

 Efficiency and Performance

Beyond health concerns, measuring air-free CO can provide insights into a furnace's efficiency and performance. Elevated CO levels may indicate incomplete combustion, which wastes fuel and leads to higher operating costs and increased wear and tear on the furnace. By ensuring that a furnace operates within safe CO limits, homeowners can save on energy costs and extend the life of their heating systems.

 Methods of Measuring Air-Free CO

 Using a Combustion Analyzer

A combustion analyzer is a specialized tool home inspectors use to measure the levels of various gases produced by a furnace, including air-free CO. This device samples the flue gas and calculates the CO concentration, adjusting for excess air to provide an accurate air-free CO reading. When using a combustion analyzer, following the manufacturer's instructions and ensuring the device is correctly calibrated for precise measurements is crucial.

 Manual Calculations

While combustion analyzers provide a convenient and accurate way to measure air-free CO, manual calculations are also an option. This involves directly measuring the CO concentration from the flue gas and adjusting the reading according to the excess air levels. The formula for calculating air-free CO is as follows:

 Air-Free CO = (Measured CO ppm) x (20.9) / (20.9 - O₂%)

 In this formula, O₂% represents the percentage of oxygen in the flue gas. By adjusting the measured CO concentration, this calculation yields an air-free CO value that eliminates the diluting effect of excess air.

 Understanding Air-Free CO Levels

 Acceptable Limits

Understanding acceptable limits of air-free CO is crucial for home inspectors and homeowners. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and other regulatory agencies establish guidelines for safe CO levels in residential environments. Air-free CO concentrations should not exceed 400 parts per million (ppm). Levels above this threshold may signal an issue with the furnace that requires immediate attention.

 While 400 ppm is considered the upper limit, our home inspectors recommend advising service if the reading exceeds 100 ppm. We occasionally face pushback from HVAC contractors who argue that this level has no problems. Our stance in the home inspection industry is that a lower number is preferable for safety and efficiency.

 Troubleshooting High CO Levels

If air-free CO levels exceed acceptable limits, an HVAC technician should thoroughly examine the furnace to identify the root cause. Common issues that can lead to elevated CO levels include:

· Blocked or restricted flue vents

· Cracked heat exchangers

· Inadequate combustion air supply

· Incorrectly adjusted burners

· Excessive soot buildup

 Addressing these problems promptly can help reduce CO levels, improve furnace efficiency, and ensure the safety of the home's occupants.

 Best Practices for Home Inspectors

 Regular Inspections

Our home inspectors incorporate regular CO measurements into their inspection routines. This helps identify potential hazards and gives homeowners peace of mind, knowing that their heating systems are operating safely and efficiently.

 Proper Documentation

Documenting the results of CO measurements is essential for maintaining accurate records and providing homeowners with valuable information about the condition of their furnaces. Detailed reports should include the air-free CO levels, identified issues, and recommended remediation actions.

 Summary

Measuring air-free CO in furnaces is a crucial aspect of home inspection that directly impacts homeowners' health, safety, and comfort. Home inspectors can play a vital role in ensuring the well-being of the homes they inspect by understanding the importance of air-free CO, utilizing proper measurement techniques, and adhering to best practices. Remember, a safe home is a happy one, starting with accurate CO measurements and diligent inspections.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect your attic and ventilation systems and identify defects. Any issues are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website or schedule your home inspection in the areas of Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN. You can also contact us today at (507) 202-8942, email us, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

The Hidden Issues Lurking in Your Attic

The attic, an often-overlooked space in a home, plays a crucial role in a home's overall health, structural integrity, and efficiency. When an attic space lacks proper ventilation, various issues can arise, affecting everything from the roof's lifespan to the home's energy efficiency and the health of its inhabitants. In this blog, the home inspection specialists at HomePro Inspections examine the potentially serious problems associated with inadequate attic ventilation and emphasize the importance of maintaining a well-ventilated attic space.

 Ridge vent at the roof

Heat Accumulation

One of the most pressing issues resulting from poor attic ventilation is heat buildup. In the summer, temperatures in a poorly ventilated attic can exceed 150 degrees Fahrenheit. This extreme heat can:

· Damage Roofing Materials—Prolonged exposure to high temperatures can cause roofing materials to deteriorate more quickly, leading to costly repairs or replacements.

· Increase Cooling Costs—Heat trapped in the attic can infiltrate the living spaces below, forcing the air conditioning system to work harder to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature and driving up energy bills.

· Reduce Comfort—The upper floors of a home can become uncomfortably warm and difficult to cool, affecting the overall comfort of the occupants.

 Moisture Build-Up

During colder months, inadequately ventilated attics are prone to moisture buildup. Warm air from the living areas below can rise and condense on cooler surfaces in the attic. This condensation can result in several problems:

· Wood Rot—Moisture can lead to the rotting or warping of wooden structures like rafters and joists, jeopardizing the roof’s structural integrity.

· Mold and Mildew—Damp conditions create an ideal environment for mold and mildew growth, allowing them to spread throughout the attic and possibly into the living areas. This can pose health risks to the occupants of the home.

· Insulation Damage—Moisture can soak the insulation, diminishing its effectiveness and resulting in increased heating and cooling expenses.

 Ice Dams

In areas with cold winters, inadequately ventilated attics can lead to the formation of ice dams. Ice dams occur when warm air from the attic melts snow on the roof, which then refreezes at the eaves, creating a barrier that obstructs proper drainage. This can result in:

· Water Damage—Meltwater can back up under the shingles and enter the home, causing water damage to walls, ceilings, and insulation.

· Gutter Damage—The weight of the ice can damage gutters and downspouts, leading to expensive repairs.

 Poor Indoor Air Quality

A poorly ventilated attic can negatively affect indoor air quality. Stagnant air and the presence of mold, mildew, and other pollutants in the attic can infiltrate the living spaces, leading to health issues such as:

· Respiratory Problems—Mold spores and other allergens can trigger asthma, allergies, and other respiratory conditions.

· Unpleasant Odors—Stale air and mold growth can create unpleasant odors that permeate the home.

 Shortened Roof Lifespan

Issues related to inadequate attic ventilation can significantly reduce the lifespan of a roof. Heat, moisture, and ice dams all contribute to the deterioration of roofing materials and roof damage. By ensuring proper ventilation, homeowners can extend their roof's lifespan, protecting their investment and preventing premature replacement costs.

 Increased Energy Costs

Inefficient attic ventilation raises energy costs throughout the year. In the summer, heat buildup forces the air conditioning system to work harder, while in the winter, moisture-soaked insulation becomes less effective, causing the heating system to run more frequently. Proper attic ventilation helps regulate a consistent temperature and eases the strain on HVAC systems, leading to lower energy bills.

 Fire Hazard

In certain situations, a poorly ventilated attic may present a fire hazard. Overheated electrical wiring and components, along with flammable materials like insulation, can elevate the risk of a fire igniting in the attic.

 Attic Ventilation Solutions

To address the issues caused by poor attic ventilation, homeowners can implement several solutions:

· Ridge Vents—Installed along the roof's peak, ridge vents allow hot air to escape from the attic.

· Soffit Vents—Located under the eaves, soffit vents allow cool air to enter the attic.

· Gable Vents—Placed on the gable ends of the attic, these vents facilitate cross-ventilation.

· Attic Fans—Electric or solar-powered fans can help exhaust hot air from the attic more effectively.

· Proper Insulation—A well-insulated attic can prevent warm air from escaping the living areas below and reduce moisture buildup.

 Summary

Keeping an attic well-ventilated is crucial for a home's overall health. Proper ventilation helps prevent heat buildup, moisture accumulation, ice dams, and poor indoor air quality while also extending the roof's lifespan and reducing energy costs. Homeowners should regularly check their attic ventilation system and make necessary improvements to ensure a safe, comfortable, and energy-efficient living environment.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect your attic and ventilation systems and identify defects. Any issues are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website or schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, areas. You can also contact us today at (507) 202-8942, send us an email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

GFCI Outlets Explained

Have you ever noticed the outlets in your home that feature small “test” and “reset” buttons on their front? These are GFCI outlets, which stand for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters. The home inspection professionals at HomePro Inspections want you to know what these specialized outlets are for and why they are absolutely crucial for the safety of everyone in your home.

 A GFCI outlet located at a kitchen counter

 This is Shocking

Most of us have experienced mild shocks at some point in our lives. Some have resulted from accidents, while others stemmed from the indiscretions of our youth. The worst shock I can recall is when I helped my dad with a project as a child. As I picked up his circular saw (made of cast aluminum) and pulled the trigger to cut a 2x4, I was immediately shocked and knocked right onto the floor.

 What happened was that I became part of an electrical circuit. The electricity quickly traveled through my body, searching for a path to ground. Fortunately, the shock was considered minor, which is odd since here I am, over 50 years later, recalling the event in vivid detail! If my muscles hadn’t reacted as they did, I could have suffered burns, tissue damage, or even death. 

 Many factors can determine the severity of a shock:

·         The strength of the voltage.

·         Your resistance as a conductor – dry skin versus wet skin.

·         The path that the electricity takes through your body.

·         The duration of the shock. Higher amperage may cause your muscles to freeze, preventing you from letting go of what is shocking you.

 Predicting the exact severity of an electrical shock is impossible. Various combinations of factors can be involved. Avoiding water contact is crucial, as it increases conductivity for you and your surroundings. 

 The Solution

Residential electrical systems saw the introduction of a new protection device in the late 1960s, known as a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, or GFCI. The purpose and design of the GFCI is to significantly reduce the risks of electrical shocks to individuals.

 GFCIs provide enhanced protection against electrical shocks, while standard breakers or fuses protect your home from damage or fire. These breakers or fuses will trip when excessive current causes your electrical system to overheat. A typical breaker may not trip at all if you experience an electric shock.

 A GFCI is designed to measure the amperage of the current flowing to and from the outlet or circuit it protects. If the GFCI detects more power flowing to the hot side of the outlet than is returning through the neutral, it will instantly interrupt the flow of electricity. This is what is generally known as a “fault.”

 If you become a conductor (part of the circuit) and electricity travels through your body from the hot wire to ground instead of returning through the neutral wire, the GFCI detects the difference and instantly interrupts (turns off) the circuit. This all happens in fractions of a second, potentially saving your life from electrocution.

 The circuitry within a GFCI outlet constantly checks for any differences between the current in the black and white wires. If there’s a difference, even as small as 5 milliamps, it indicates a current leak, possibly through your body, prompting the GFCI to shut down the receptacle and any downstream receptacles.

 The National Electric Code (NEC) began mandating GFCI outlets in certain areas of the home. Over time, the use of GFCIs throughout the home has expanded. GFCIs are required for outlets or circuits near running or standing water. You can find GFCIs in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, garages, unfinished spaces, and exterior outlets.

 Please refer to the GFCI Fact Sheet from the Consumer Products Safety Commission.

 GFCI Outlets vs. Breakers

One form of GFCI is the type typically found in wall outlets. These can protect either the individual outlet or the entire circuit, as long as it's the first outlet in the circuit and a ground wire is present.

The breaker panel offers another option for GFCIs. If all the receptacles on the circuit have a ground wire connected, this type of GFCI can protect the entire circuit.

 GFCIs and Home Inspections

During a home inspection, we almost always discuss GFCI outlets and breakers. Our inspectors must document the presence or absence of GFCI protection in necessary locations. Your inspector will also test each GFCI to ensure it functions correctly and provides protection where needed.

 It is not unusual for your home inspector to find GFCI outlets that are not functioning correctly. GFCIs wear out over time, and in areas with high moisture, such as bathrooms, garages, or outdoors, the contacts can corrode due to humidity, preventing them from operating correctly. Your home inspection report will note this safety concern.

 Older homes may lack GFCI outlets because their construction did not require them. Regardless of the home's age, your home inspector will recommend installing GFCI protection in the appropriate areas.

 Periodically Test Your GFCIs

As mentioned earlier, GFCIs can wear out over time. It is advisable to test them to ensure they are functioning correctly. You can use the test button on the GFCI receptacle or an outlet tester like the one your home inspector used during your home inspection. After tripping the circuit, plug in a radio or a lamp to verify that there is, in fact, no power to the outlet.

 Because the internal components can wear out over time, you should also regularly test these. When you press the test button on your GFCI, there should be an audible click or pop. You can achieve this by plugging in an appliance such as a lamp and pressing the “test” button. GFCI breakers also have the same “test” function built in.

 When you press the reset button, power should be restored, and your lamp should light up again. If your GFCI doesn't work correctly, contact an electrician.

 Summary

As part of a home inspection, our home inspectors check to see if GFCIs are installed in the proper locations and operating correctly. Any issues will be documented in your inspection report.

 Ultimately, you will want to ensure your home has GFCIs installed to protect you and your family. The added safety and protection far outweigh the cost of adding GFCI outlets, which can be swapped out for an existing outlet or breaker in your panel.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, area. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

What Is a Condensate Pump?

If you have a high-efficiency HVAC system for heating and air conditioning, you will need a way to route the condensate to drain. Sometimes, it's possible to run a line to a floor drain, while at other times, you will require what is known as a condensate pump. The home inspection specialists at HomePro Inspections offer the following information to help you understand what this crucial device is, how it functions, and how to keep it running efficiently.

 A condensate pump is positioned next to an HVAC system.

 What is condensate, and where does it come from?

High-efficiency HVAC heating systems and air conditioners generate condensate during normal operation. Other appliances in your home, such as water heaters, dehumidifiers, refrigerators, and freezers, also produce condensate.

 High-efficiency heating systems feature a sealed combustion chamber. The water created during the combustion process has nowhere to go and must be drained from the system.

 Air conditioners generate condensate as they cool the air across the cooling coils. Moisture in the air condenses on the coils and drains into a pan, which also needs to be drained away from the system.

 What is a condensate pump?

As your HVAC system operates, it generates condensate. This condensate builds up and needs to be directed to a drain to avoid damaging the system or structure. Sometimes, a homeowner can connect a drain line to a nearby floor drain. A condensate pump may be necessary if a floor drain isn't nearby. A condensate pump is a small unit consisting of a sump and a compact, motorized pump. Its purpose is to move the condensate to a remote drain located in a different section of the mechanical system room.

In the photo below, the two one-inch PVC lines on the left side deposit condensate from the HVAC system. The flexible braided line on the right pumps the condensate up and over to a laundry sink on the other side of the room.

 A condensate pump with inlet and discharge tubes

 How does a pump function?

The condensate from your HVAC system drains into the sump section of the pump enclosure. A float within the sump activates the pump when the condensate level reaches its maximum.

 When the float activates the motor, the condensate is pumped through the discharge tube to a designated location, such as a floor drain or a laundry sink. The pump continues running until the float indicates the sump is empty.

 Maintaining your pump is crucial.

Ensuring your condensate pump operates and drains correctly will prevent water from flooding the area within and around your HVAC system.

Inspect your condensate pump and the inlet and outlet lines to ensure they are free of damage. Make sure to unplug the condensate pump before performing any maintenance.

If your condensate pump has excess debris and organic growth buildup, you may need to disassemble it and clean it using a bottle brush. Sometimes, soaking the sump area with vinegar can help remove stubborn stains. Clean as necessary and reassemble for use.

Once everything is cleaned and reassembled, plug the unit back in and monitor it to ensure it functions correctly.

 If you notice significant organic growth in your condensate pumps, consider using pellets that prevent the growth of algae and mold.

 Summary

When a HomePro Inspections home inspector conducts an inspection, they always check the heating and cooling systems. During this inspection, the inspector examines any condensate drain lines to determine if they flow directly to a floor drain or through a condensate pump to another location.

Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, area. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature.

Does Your Exterior Door Weatherstripping Need Replacing?

It’s winter, and now you can really notice the draft seeping in through the front door. Replacing worn or damaged weatherstripping will not only make your home more comfortable, but it will also help reduce energy consumption, meaning your furnace won’t have to work as hard. While tackling this task before the cold weather arrives can make the job easier, it can be accomplished during any season. The home inspection pros at HomePro Inspections provide the following tips and ideas to help make this project go as quickly and easily as possible!

 Exterior door weatherstripping

According to ENERGY STAR®, weatherstripping can save you up to 20% on your heating and cooling costs. Generally, someone with basic skills can manage most weatherstripping projects. It’s fairly straightforward, but you need to ensure that you are using the best products for the task at hand and installing them correctly.

Exterior door weatherstripping and threshold

Assemble the tools and materials you need for the project.

·         Tape measure

·         Screwdrivers

·         Scissors

·         Cleaning supplies

·         Replacement weatherstripping

·         Replacement door sweep

 Follow this easy step-by-step process to replace the weatherstripping.

·         Clean and prepare the area.

Remove as much dirt and debris as possible. Clean the area using hot, soapy water. Apply sandpaper or stronger solvents to get rid of any residue that the hot, soapy water does not remove.

·         Tighten the door hinges.

People often overlook their door hinges. Lift the door handle to check for any play or looseness. Tightening the hinges ensures that the door sits squarely in its frame and closes properly.

Door hinge

 ·         Take measurements and determine the type of weatherstripping you need.

Measure both the width and height of your door opening to determine how much weatherstripping you will need. Many modern doors use similar products. Identify the required products and the quantity you'll need. Most big-box stores will have various options and kits for replacing the more popular and commonly used items. There are pros and cons to different types of weather stripping. Now is not the time to be cheap. Invest in the best product for your project.

·         Remove the old weatherstripping and door sweep.

The weatherstripping and door sweep on most modern doors are typically installed by being pressed or inserted into a slot in the door frame or the door itself. Unless the old weatherstripping has been secured in place with paint, you can usually pull it out with little effort.

 Door sweeps can occasionally be removed while the door is still in place. If this proves too challenging, it might be quicker to simply take the door off its hinges. You may need some extra assistance with this.

Door sweep at the bottom of the door

·         Remeasure and cut the new weatherstripping to length.

The pre-cut replacement weatherstripping is usually slightly longer than the actual door opening. Remeasure and trim the weatherstripping to the correct length. Check the length and adjust if needed for the best fit. Slide the new weatherstripping into the designated slot in the frame. Double-check the length of the door sweep and trim as needed.

·         Confirm the fit and that it functions correctly.

Open and close your door to ensure that the fit and function of your new weatherstripping are correct. Remember that the new weatherstripping may cause your door to open and close slightly harder. Over time, this will become easier as the weatherstripping settles in place.

 Summary

Replacing the weatherstripping on your exterior door usually takes an hour and is inexpensive. This simple process is one of the most cost-effective methods to lower home heating costs. It also protects against rain, insects, and rodents entering your home.

 At HomePro Inspections, our certified home inspectors are skilled in evaluating the weatherstripping and functionality of door seals and identifying any defects. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, areas. You can also contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Ice Dams and How to Prevent Them

Winter is here, and so is the potential for ice dams. Having icicles form after warm weather is one thing, but it becomes a significant issue if these icicles are caused by ice dams. To reduce the potential for damage to your home, the home inspection professionals at HomePro Inspections want you to understand why it’s important to recognize how ice dams form, how they can impact your home, and some methods you can use to prevent them from forming.

 An ice dam at the edge of the roof

 What is an ice dam? 

Icicles can form at the bottom edge of a roofline or on gutters when water gets cold enough to freeze. When water runs down your roof and approaches freezing, the water dripping off the edge begins to form icicles.

 As gutters fill with water and freeze, they become heavy and can damage your gutter system. If the water accumulates, it creates an ice dam at the eaves, preventing water from flowing over the roof's edge. This water can seep under the roof coverings and into the eaves and attic, and eventually into the walls and ceilings.

 Icicles and ice dams indicate a more significant issue with the house. Ice dams can develop when the roof covering is warmer than the eaves, even in below-freezing temperatures.

What are the primary causes of ice dams?

The two main causes of ice dams are inadequate insulation and insufficient ventilation in the attic. If your home has minimal insulation, heat from inside will rise into the attic and warm the roofing materials. Snow on these surfaces will melt and flow to the edges of your roof. The roof overhangs are colder than the attic space. Once that water reaches the edge, it begins to refreeze and accumulate.

 How an ice dam forms

Inadequate ventilation will cause condensation to build up on the bottom of the roof decking. Moisture from inside your home will find its way into the attic space, and condensation on the roof decking and structural materials may cause staining and/or moisture damage.

 When we inspect attic spaces during the winter months, we often notice frost on nails and other metal fasteners where ventilation may be insufficient. Upon observing frost, our home inspectors will check for signs of moisture staining and indications of ice dams.

 On one home inspection years ago, I saw icicles in the attic space of an older home that had very little attic space ventilation. I took photos and documented the condition in the home inspection report.

 How can you prevent ice dams?

Often, resolving this issue is quite straightforward. The most effective way to prevent ice dams is to enhance the insulation and improve ventilation in the attic. If the roof is not warm, any snow that falls on it will not melt readily. Ideally, the roof should be at a temperature similar to the outside air. This prevents snow from melting and refreezing at the eaves. Some older homes do not allow additional insulation where the exterior wall meets the roof's slope. If this is your case, you can try one or more of the following options.

 You can sometimes use heating tapes or cables to melt ice dams at the eaves and create pathways for water to flow off the roof. However, using these devices only addresses the symptoms and not the conditions that cause the ice dams. Therefore, your first course of action should be to assess the insulation levels and ventilation in your attic space.

 Another preventative measure is using a roof rake to remove fresh snowfall from the eaves of your home. Clearing the snow from the eaves allows sunlight to warm this part of your roof, thereby helping to reduce ice dams. You need to be especially cautious not to damage the roof surface while using a roof rake. However, this method does not address the underlying cause of ice dam formation.

 Using a roof rake to prevent ice dams

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect your attic space and identify any defects that may lead to damage. Any issues are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, areas. You can also contact us today at (507) 202-8942, send us an email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Have You Ever Replaced the Anode Rod in Your Water Heater?

Water heater manufacturers recommend that you replace the anode rod in your water heater annually. As a home inspector, I’ve come to understand that virtually nobody does this, with the main reason being that most people don’t realize this vital component exists and what purpose it serves. The home inspection professionals at HomePro Inspections offer the following information to help you understand what an anode rod is, why your water heater has one, how to tell if it needs replacing, and what to do when it’s time for replacement.

  Corroded and new water heater anode rods

What is an anode rod, and what does it do?

The purpose of the water heater anode rod is to corrode and collect sediment to prevent it from reaching the heater. The anode rod threads into the top of your water heater and extends into the water tank. Aluminum, magnesium, or occasionally zinc make up its composition. Because magnesium releases electrons more freely than aluminum, it's the most effective material. As the anode rod gives up electrons, it becomes depleted, which requires its replacement.

 How do I know if the anode rod is depleted?

Understanding the signs that an anode rod is no longer working properly helps increase the water heater's lifespan and keeps the water quality in your home high. Generally, you should replace the anode rod every three to five years, despite the manufacturer's recommendation for an annual replacement. If you live where the water hardness is high, you will want to replace the anode rod more often.

 If you have never replaced the anode rod in your water heater, there are some ways to tell if it needs replacing. The most obvious is if you notice a rotten egg or sulfur smell coming from your hot water. A harmless bacterium causes the foul smell, and although it's not dangerous, you'll likely want to eliminate the unpleasant smell. Another sign might be water that looks slightly different or discolored. Lastly, you have the option to remove the anode rod, inspect it, and replace it if it shows depletion.

 The hex head of the anode rod is located at the top of the water heater

 When it comes time for replacement, which anode rod material should I choose?

As stated before, anode rods can come in magnesium, aluminum, or zinc. Magnesium and aluminum are the most popular.

 ·         Magnesium

Magnesium is considered the most efficient anode rod, but it has drawbacks. Magnesium is better at preventing corrosion, but it doesn't last as long because it corrodes faster. They are also more expensive.

 ·         Aluminum

An aluminum anode rod is much less expensive than magnesium. Because they don't catch as much sediment, they tend to deplete more slowly. Although they’re cheaper and last longer, they aren’t as effective as magnesium.

 In the end, if you live in an area like SE Minnesota, where we have very hard water, you should go with a magnesium anode rod in your water heater. An aluminum anode rod should suit your needs if your water is conditioned or you happen to live in a low-mineral area. While anode rod replacement can certainly be a DIY chore, if you feel you lack the knowledge and skills to do so safely, call a professional plumber.

 Summary

Ultimately, a magnesium anode rod should be the go-to choice if you live in an area where there are high levels of minerals in the water. On the other hand, if hard water isn’t a huge concern, then an aluminum anode rod is suitable enough.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. Contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Do I Need a Building Permit for This Project?

Ever since the pandemic, more and more people have taken on home improvement projects to make their house into the home they desire. While these projects can be fun, exciting, and rewarding, some require a building permit through your local jurisdiction. Occasionally, a HomePro Inspections home inspector receives a question about the permit status of specific projects like kitchen upgrades, new decks, or additions. Despite the significance of this detail, our home inspection Standards of Practice do not encompass the research on project permits.

 We may all agree that the permitting process can sometimes be complicated. Still, it is worth the time to ensure that your project is safe, complies with local regulations and building codes, and does not adversely affect the value of your home. Although we don't check for permits or code compliance, we let our clients know that we will report any errors in workmanship.

 Plumbing and Electrical Building Permits Needed

Plumbing and electrical DIY projects are the ones homeowners tend to take on most often. Despite their apparent simplicity, improper work can lead to significant potential hazards.

·         Electrical Systems

Building permits are required if your electrical systems project involves installing new wiring, adding additional outlets or lighting, or upgrading an electrical panel. Electrocution and fire are the most significant hazards associated with DIY electrical systems projects.

·         Plumbing Systems

A building permit is generally required to replace water heaters, relocate or replace plumbing fixtures, add water supply lines, or alter drainage and sewer lines. Building permits ensure proper installation and prevent potential plumbing issues related to leaks or backups in the drainage system.

 Exterior Projects Building Permits Needed

Because some exterior projects require permitting, it's always best to check with the local Building and Safety department. You are also responsible for making sure any underground utilities are located and marked before you begin.

·         Patios and Decks

Building permits for patios and decks will ensure compliance with local safety codes. Decks involve load-bearing requirements and proper construction techniques. Building your deck to the latest building codes will prevent unfortunate accidents, such as collapses or railing failures. Patios should naturally drain away from the home's foundation and be flat and level enough to prevent tripping hazards.

·         Fencing

Fencing requirements may include height limitations, setbacks, and access to utility easements. Some neighborhood associations may also have regulations that maintain aesthetic requirements for the neighborhood.

 Heating, Ventilation, and Cooling Systems

HVAC system replacements or modifications typically require a building permit. A licensed professional must perform the work if you install or modify your HVAC system. Permits ensure that upgrades meet your local jurisdiction's efficiency and safety standards.

 Structural Changes

Structural changes almost always require a building permit. Our home inspectors frequently observe structural problems in older homes that have undergone work without the necessary permit. Inadequately supported beams, notched floor joists, and undersized components are among the problems. These deficiencies can lead to the structure sagging and shifting.

·         Basement Remodeling

Finishing or remodeling a basement space will require structural, electrical, HVAC, plumbing, and safety permits. Too many basement DIY projects may lack adequate air returns, egress, electrical, and minimum headroom requirements.

·         Additions

Building permits will ensure adherence to building codes and structural integrity when adding on to your home. Whether adding a bathroom or expanding your living space with a bathroom or addition, you will need to secure a building permit.

·         Load-Bearing Walls

Removing or altering load-bearing walls will require a building permit to ensure structural integrity. This question is very common with first-time home buyers. With all the home improvement shows, people always want to open up living spaces, so they ask our home inspectors about moving or removing walls.

 Summary

Always consult with your local building department or a licensed contractor to determine the specific permits needed for your project. By following the proper permitting process, you can confidently embark on your home projects, knowing they are in line with regulations and designed to enhance your home for years.

 Over the years, our home inspectors have found electrical panels in bathrooms, pull-chain lighting fixtures, and switches installed in shower enclosures. Often, people finish off basements and do not install air returns in any of the rooms. Several years ago, I inspected a home where the basement was wired with 16-gauge lamp cord. The list goes on and on.

 As part of a home inspection, our inspectors check to see that the furnace air filter is correctly sized, clean, and serviceable. If not, we recommend maintenance in our inspection reports.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, area. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Home Inspection Limitations

The number one goal for a HomePro Inspections home inspector is to provide a home inspection that is as thorough and complete as possible. Our inspectors cover all aspects of your home, from the roof to the foundation, including the structure's plumbing, heating, cooling, electrical systems, and interior.

 We understand that buying a home is a serious commitment. Your home inspection is designed to provide a comprehensive snapshot of the house’s general condition on the inspection date.

 We conduct our home inspections in accordance with a standard of practice that outlines what we must inspect, what we must document, and what falls outside the purview of a general home inspection.

 There can be physical limitations when inspecting a house.

Depending on the home or the season, there may be limitations that prevent us from thoroughly inspecting every aspect of it.

 Roofs

We try to walk on every roof we can. However, there are some limitations. Every home is unique, and a home inspector must decide whether it is safe to walk on a roof. Sometimes, a ladder cannot reach the roof, or the pitch is too steep.

 A steeply pitched roof

Before getting onto a roof, we must also consider wind, rain, frost, and snow conditions.

 In addition to weather conditions, one should avoid walking on certain materials. These include clay or concrete tiles, stone-coated metal roofing materials, and wooden shakes. These materials can be slippery and, in some cases, easily damaged.

 If we cannot physically walk a roof, your home inspector will give it his best visual assessment using binoculars from the ground or the eaves.

 Crawlspaces and Attics

Crawl spaces and attics, like roofs, can vary from home to home. Depending on the home's vintage, you never know what may be above or below the living space.

 Crawl spaces in older homes can be so narrow that physical access is impossible. Your home inspector will use a flashlight to observe as much of a tight crawl space as possible from the point of access.

Restricted crawl space

As for attics, we typically only fully enter them if they have safe-to-walk-on flooring. In this part of the country, many attics have up to 20 inches of fluffy white fiberglass insulation, which is difficult and dangerous to walk through. It is typical for the home inspector to observe the attic space visually from its access point.

 Personal belongings and obstructions can create inspection challenges.

Occasionally, personal belongings can limit a home inspector's ability to assess the property. While most homes have storage areas, it can be challenging for a home inspector to fully assess certain areas without assistance. Stored items can completely obstruct areas, such as walls or floors in garages, utility rooms, and storage areas.

 I did a pre-listing inspection several years ago. The tuck-under garage had boxes stacked from floor to ceiling on three walls. A buyer’s inspection showed a large step crack in the back wall, which was below grade on the outside and completely obstructed from the inside. The inspection report noted the obstruction and included photos that revealed no access to the garage walls.

 Excessive clutter can create problems as well. During some inspections, we’ve had to deal with situations where there was so much clutter that only narrow paths ran from one room to another.

 In addition to physical constraints, seasonal factors can also influence a home inspection.

Nobody should be surprised that this part of the country can experience heavy snowfall, which can restrict the scope of a home's inspection. When snow obstructs our ability to fully inspect a house, we must disclose what we cannot physically inspect.

 Heavy snow covers the external components of a home

 Even though arriving at a home with 12 to 18 inches of snow on top of everything can be frustrating for both the home inspector and the prospective home buyer, we must disclose that we cannot properly evaluate the roof, deck, patio, driveway, sidewalks, and grounds.

 Air conditioning systems require a degree of caution.

Air conditioning systems require special attention when the weather turns cold. Operating an air conditioning unit in cold temperatures may damage it and lead to costly repairs. Once the outdoor temperature has dropped below 65°F, we cannot test air conditioning systems. We can look at them physically but cannot correctly assess their functionality.

 There are other limitations that can affect a standard home inspection.

Some homes have items such as solar panels, built-in grills, pools, hot tubs, saunas, and, yes, sometimes the occasional elevator.

 Our home inspectors may comment on these items, but we will commonly refer them to a specialist.

 Summary

Your home inspector has a wealth of knowledge about many aspects of your home. We are generalists and only have in-depth expertise on some things. Our standard of practice clearly defines what we do and do not inspect.

 Our job is to identify defects and recommend repairs as necessary. If we cannot fully assess some aspect of a home, we must document that limitation.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, area. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to

Your Home Needs to Breathe

Over time, builders have tightened and improved the construction of new homes to conserve energy and maintain warmth. Windows and doors are more efficient, and air sealing has reduced random sources of air infiltration to almost nothing. As a result, it is harder for our homes to breathe. A fresh air vent helps solve this issue by channeling fresh outdoor air to specific areas of the home. The professional home inspectors at HomePro Inspections want you to know that the more you do to help your homes breathe, the healthier the air is for you.

 Gas-burning appliances such as furnaces, water heaters, fireplaces, stoves, ovens, and clothes dryers need a continuous supply of oxygen. Some people may argue that having a vent that brings cold air into their home during the frigid dead of winter is unnecessary, but this vent is actually supplying the home with the combustible oxygen it needs to create a safer and healthier indoor environment.

 How do fresh air vents work?

When explaining fresh air vents to my home inspection clients, I use an example from my childhood in a 1950s vintage rambler home. Back then, we sat on the hardwood floor in the living room to watch the old black-and-white TV. When the furnace kicked on in the utility room, you could feel the cold air move along the floor from under the front door to the cold air return across the room.

 Fresh air vents facilitate the ventilation of homes and gas appliances by directing airflow to areas of the house that require it most. They are usually located in the utility or mechanical room where there’s a furnace, water heater, and possibly a gas dryer. They supply the air for proper combustion and prevent backdrafting and carbon monoxide buildup.

 What is backdrafting, and how does it occur?

For example, if someone is cooking and running the exhaust vent in the kitchen while the exhaust vents in two of the three bathrooms are in use and the clothes dryer is running, all of these appliances draw air from within your home and vent it outside. Now, if the old water heater kicks on and has a standard atmospheric vent, the exhaust naturally rises up and out of the vent through the roof. When a combustible appliance, such as a water heater or a furnace, draws its exhaust back into your home instead of naturally venting out of the roof, this phenomenon is known as backdrafting.

 Why fresh air vents are important.

The gas appliances in your home use oxygen as part of the combustion process. Without a source of fresh outdoor air from a vent intake, they would consume the available oxygen, which is highly problematic. This would reduce the available oxygen supply for the home's occupants and potentially lead to an unhealthy accumulation of carbon monoxide. A fresh air vent provides the necessary replacement combustion air for your appliances to operate correctly and the occupants of your home to live safely.

 How to identify a fresh air vent.

Our home inspectors confirm the presence of a fresh air vent during a home inspection. This vent is typically located in the utility room, next to the furnace and water heater. The utility room often also contains a clothes dryer and a washing machine.

A fresh air vent in a utility room

The fresh air vent will be a 6- to 8-inch duct that extends down to the floor, typically with a loop at the bottom, resembling the letter “J.” This duct may extend through the home and into the attic or to a wall vent. Extending the vent to the attic prevents wind from directly blowing into the vent.

 A fresh air vent in an attic

 What about the cold air?

Occasionally, we find rags, towels, or foam balls stuck in the utility room's fresh air vents during a home inspection. Homeowners who do not understand the purpose of these vents think they are doing the right thing by blocking the cold air entering the home. Our home inspectors will explain the reasons for the vent and why the cold air is necessary.

 Summary

It is essential to have clean air in your home for breathing. Outside fresh air replaces the expelled dirty air. Remember, don’t block that vent; ensure it is clear to allow air to flow into your home.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect your HVAC systems and identify defects. Any issues are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website or schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, areas. You can also contact us today at (507) 202-8942, send us an email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Mold Testing Guidance and Considerations

Mold on basement utility room wall

Mold is everywhere, and it can exist in your home year-round. It can easily survive during cool, rainy seasons and spread explosively during the hot, humid days of summer. It is important for homeowners to understand the potential levels of mold in their home and know what to do if it is affecting them and/or their family. The professionals at HomePro Inspections hope the following guidance helps you understand the dangers of mold and highlights the signs that indicate you may need to consider mold testing or mitigation.

 What is mold?

 Mold is a unique organism that is present almost everywhere. Its role involves the breakdown and decomposition of dead and dying materials in both indoor and outdoor environments. In the grand scheme of things we call nature, mold has a necessary purpose.

 Wet basements, crawlspaces, and poorly ventilated attics are prone to mold, also known as “microbial growth.” Areas with persistent leaks can create ideal conditions for mold growth. These places often have a recognizable damp and musty smell. If you notice this odor in your home, consider mold testing.

 When and why would you want mold testing performed in your home?

If you suspect there is mold in your home, it is important to address the source and fix the problem to prevent harmful exposure to your family. You can confirm the effective resolution of the issue by conducting mold testing afterwards.

 Mold problems can occur when people are exposed to high levels of microbial spores, but not everyone is affected by mold in the same way. Individuals with allergies, weakened immune systems, infants, and the elderly are most susceptible to mold exposure. 

 When a home buyer, especially anyone with asthma or other health issues that elevated mold levels in the air can aggravate, finds a home they would like to purchase, mold testing should be seriously considered. We tailor our mold testing services perfectly for buyers seeking to ensure there are no mold issues.

 Another common reason for mold testing is when people move into a new home or have visitors who experience health issues not encountered elsewhere. We recently performed mold testing for a couple with a young grandchild who had no problems in the rest of their home, except in the basement. When the child entered the basement, they developed red, scratchy eyes and began to sneeze.

 Wet walls with mold

 Here’s a brief explanation of our mold testing.

Any type of mold growing in your home can cause health problems, and the effects of mold exposure can differ significantly from person to person. If you think your home has a mold problem, consider having it tested. Sometimes the problem is obvious, but sometimes testing or sampling is the only way to determine if there is an actual mold issue.

 After scheduling an appointment, one of our technicians will come to your home to perform mold sampling. They will first discuss any concerns you may have about mold and then inspect the home for any potential problem areas. 

 When we conduct our mold testing, we may use two types of mold sampling. The most common method is an air sample, which detects mold spores in the air in the sampled area. The other method involves taking a swab sample from a surface and examining the mold microbes present in it.

 It must be noted that mold testing alone cannot determine how you or your family will react to or be affected by mold growth in your home. The best first step in protecting your family is identifying and removing the source and root cause of the mold spores.

 How long does mold testing take, and is it accurate?

Our testing procedures and process typically take about 30 minutes on average. In addition to the sampling, the visual inspection is fairly routine. However, if there are obvious issues and additional sampling requires documentation, it can take longer.

 Once we complete and document the testing, we send the samples to a lab for analysis and reporting. The reports detail any molds found in the samples, common areas where they develop, and common symptoms of exposure to the molds identified.

 Recent innovations in microbial testing have significantly improved accuracy to approximately 99%. By following protocols and minimizing user error, testing laboratories can accurately identify mold problems and determine the types of mold present.

 In Summary

If you suspect a mold problem, you should have mold testing done in your home. Regardless of whether the problem is obvious or just something in the air, testing can help you determine if there is an issue. Mold testing is relatively inexpensive and is the first step in deciding your course of action.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule mold testing in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, areas. You can also contact us today at (507) 202-8942, send us an email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

My Bathroom Has Some Bad Smells – What Could That Be?

There may be times when your bathroom smells terrible. Nobody's been in there for a while, but it still smells awful. Scented candles and air fresheners can help mask offensive odors, but if it’s the stench of sewer gas, it signals a problem that requires immediate resolution. During a home inspection, our HomePro Inspections professionals will record any odors they detect and include this information in your home inspection report.

 The Usual Suspects

·         The toilet

·         The sink drain

·         The shower drain

·         The bathtub drain

·         The hydromassage tub

·         Plumbing vents

·         Crazy Uncle Harland (just kidding, but sometimes he visits).

 Inspecting these areas can help narrow down the culprit and give you a place to start. It’s important that you address sewer gases promptly; don’t ignore these smells.

 You may have a more significant issue if you notice smells and gurgling noises in your sink or toilet drains.

 Understanding Why This is Important

Nobody wants to smell sewer gases in their home. If you smell sewer gases, there is typically an issue with the drain or a vent pipe, damaged or broken seals, or buildup in the overflow of a sink. If you have thoroughly inspected and evaluated “the usual suspects” but can’t find the cause, you may need to call a professional.

 Some Potential Causes of Sewer Gas Odors

 The Toilet

If you inspect your toilet and find water pooling around the base, you could have a broken or damaged seal. A broken seal could allow sewer gases to escape into the room.

 A damaged toilet seal on the floor

There is a seal between the toilet and the floor flange. A broken or loose seal could allow sewer gases to enter the home. Leaking water may also result in organic growth, which can cause a foul smell.

 Organic growth on sink surfaces

Sink Drain

If there are any kinds of organic growth or buildup, such as films, mold, or mildew, they may smell like sewage. A clogged drain may also be the source of a foul smell. There are a number of commercially available products that can remove gunk from clogged drains. Do your research to ensure you are purchasing the appropriate product to clean up these issues.

 Bad odors can occur if the P-trap or an S-trap in your sink is dry, dirty, or missing. The P-trap is designed to hold water. If you don’t use a sink for a long time, the water may evaporate from the P-trap, allowing sewer gases to enter the room. Simply run some water down the drain to allow the P-trap to fill. Dirty traps can also result in sewer gases escaping. If there is no trap at your sink, install one to contain sewer gases.

 Your bathroom sink may have an S-trap if you live in a very old house. S-traps, by nature, can sometimes siphon some or all the water out of the trap when draining.

 A clogged shower drain can result in sewer smells

 Shower and Bathtub Drains

When we shower, dirt from our bodies can accumulate in the corners and surfaces of our shower pans. Sometimes, you'll see an orangish or pinkish film in your shower. This is organic growth and can result in sewage smells. To keep these films from accumulating, sprays are available that you can use to treat your shower daily or weekly. Much like the bathroom sink, hair and scum can clog a shower or bathtub drain. Dirty traps can also result in sewer gases escaping.

 Jacuzzi® or Hydromassage Tub

These spa-type tubs have a system of pipes and valves that allow water and air to be forced through the tub water. Removing all the water from these lines when the tub is drained is difficult. Water that remains can lead to organic growth within the lines, potentially causing unpleasant odors. When you use your hydromassage tub after it has been sitting for a long time, you may notice bits of gunk or black flakes circulating in the water. These are fragments of organic debris that have been dislodged by the force of the water. You can use a commercially available cleaner to help keep your hydromassage tub free of organic growth.

 Plumbing Vents

Plumbing vents facilitate the backflow of air into your plumbing drain system and the venting of sewer gases to the exterior of your home. Improperly installed or blocked vents will not allow the sewer gases out and may result in gurgling at your sinks or toilets. Plumbing vents allow water to flow smoothly through your drain system and vent the sewer gases out of your home.

 In some cases, such as renovations or very old homes, air admittance valves may be used. You may find an air admittance valve underneath your sink or venting to an attic space. As with anything mechanical, these can also fail over time. Improperly installed air admittance valves can result in sewer gases entering your home through drains.

 Summary

If the recommendations above do not solve your sewer gas problems, you may have to call a professional. Ignoring sewer gas smells can result in bigger issues down the road, so you will want to investigate and act sooner rather than later.

 As part of a home inspection, our inspectors will inspect the visual components of your plumbing system and check for any unpleasant smells. Any issues found will be documented in your home inspection report.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, area. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, send us an email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Expansive Soils, Freezing Temperatures, and How They Can Affect Concrete

During a home inspection, the professionals at HomePro Inspections check for a multitude of potential issues. When it comes to sidewalks, driveways, and concrete slabs, we note any cracked concrete we may find. Truth be told, in this part of the state, it is safe to say that there are two kinds of concrete: the kind that is cracked and the kind that is going to crack.

 What are expansive soils?

Expansive soils are known for their ability to swell and shrink in response to changes in moisture levels and temperatures. In this part of the country, blue and green clays are problematic. These soils can cause severe problems for structures built on them, as they have the potential to crack foundations and damage sidewalks and roads. Engineers typically use special foundations and construction techniques to mitigate the risks posed by expansive soils. However, even with these precautions, damage from expansive soil can still be a problem.

 How does expansive soil cause problems for concrete slabs?

Minnesota's freezing temperatures can result in dramatic heaving, movement, and cracking if the soils below a concrete slab are not chosen and appropriately prepared and have proper drainage. When we perform a home inspection, our inspectors at HomePro Inspections are looking for and documenting any potential issues with concrete slabs.

 How does expansive soil affect concrete slabs?

When concrete cracks, it's usually because of expansive soil. Also known as "swelling clay," expansive soils can wreak havoc on everything from sidewalks and patios to foundations.

 Expansive soils contain minerals that absorb water and expand when wet. This can put tremendous pressure on concrete, causing it to crack and crumble, rise, or settle. In some cases, the damage can be so severe that the entire slab needs to be replaced.

 There are several ways to deal with expansive soil, but the most important thing is to make sure that any concrete slab you pour has the proper base materials, drainage, and reinforcement. This will help reduce the risk of cracks and provide some protection if they occur. Consult a qualified contractor before beginning any concrete project in an area with expansive soil.

 How do freezing temperatures affect expansive soil?

The problem is that concrete is porous, meaning it can absorb water from the ground below. When this water freezes, it expands, putting pressure on the slab above. Over time, this can cause cracks to form in the concrete. In severe cases, the entire slab can even collapse. If you live in an area with cold winters, keep an eye on your concrete slabs and take steps to prevent them from being damaged by freezing temperatures.

 Why is it important to repair cracks in concrete?

Concrete slabs are subject to all sorts of stressors, including expansion and contraction due to temperature changes, vehicle weight, and even regular foot traffic. Over time, these stresses can cause cracks to form in the concrete.

 While some cracks are purely cosmetic, others can pose a severe safety hazard. For example, if a crack is wide and deep enough, it can cause a trip-and-fall accident. In extreme cases, cracked concrete can even collapse and settle entirely. That's why it's important to repair cracked concrete as soon as any cracks are discovered. By filling in the cracks, you'll not only improve the appearance of your concrete, but you'll also help to prevent further damage due to freeze/thaw cycles. In our home inspection reports, we define concrete cracks as maintenance items or recommended repairs to help our clients prioritize how these issues are resolved.

 What are the best methods for repairing cracks in concrete?

Concrete is a sturdy material that can last for many years with proper care. However, even the most well-constructed concrete slab is not immune to cracks. Despite their minor appearance, small cracks can grow larger and cause severe damage if left untreated. Fortunately, there are several effective methods for repairing cracks in concrete.

 One popular method is to fill the crack with flexible epoxy resin. This type of resin is designed to expand and contract as the temperature changes, helping to prevent the crack from reappearing. Epoxy resins are available in various colors, so you can also use this method to improve the appearance of your concrete.

 Another option is to fill the crack with a polymer-based concrete leveling compound. This compound can be applied using a simple caulk gun, and it will harden in a few hours. Once it's hardened, the concrete leveling compound will help level out any uneven surfaces and prevent the crack from spreading.

 Conclusion

Cracked concrete is not only unsightly but can also pose a serious safety hazard. Fortunately, there are a number of effective methods for repairing cracks in concrete. By filling in the cracks, you'll not only improve the appearance of your concrete but also help prevent further damage and keep your sidewalks, driveways, and patios safe.

 HomePro Inspections' professionals dedicate themselves to providing the most comprehensive home inspection available. Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, area. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

The Importance of a Clean Furnace Air Filter

When it comes to properly maintaining your furnace, it’s best to change the furnace air filter at least once a month or as often as the manufacturer recommends. What can happen if you don’t? Your furnace will work harder than necessary, consume more energy, and potentially experience premature failure. Additionally, a dirty furnace filter will make the air and everything in your home dirtier, including you. The home inspection specialists at HomePro Inspections want you to understand the impact of a dirty furnace filter on your health, home, and budget.

 Dirty furnace filters can lead to several problems, including:

·         Reduced Airflow: Dirt and debris clogging the furnace air filter blocks airflow, forcing the furnace to work harder and longer than necessary.

·         Health Issues: A dirty furnace filter can be a breeding ground for bacteria and allergens, which can cause respiratory problems and other health issues.

·         Higher Energy Bills: As previously mentioned, a clogged furnace filter increases the furnace’s workload, resulting in higher energy bills. A dirty furnace filter will cost you more in electricity and fuel in the long run. In fact, according to Energy Star, a dirty furnace filter can increase energy bills by 5% to 15%.

·         Premature Furnace Failure: Premature failure is one of the most common problems associated with a dirty furnace air filter. When the filter becomes clogged, it restricts airflow to the furnace. This causes the furnace to work harder than necessary, which puts extra strain on the unit and can lead to a breakdown.

 When replacing a furnace air filter, select the correct size and style.

There are various types of furnace air filters available on the market. The most crucial factor to consider when selecting a furnace air filter is the size of your furnace. You want to ensure you get a filter the same size as recommended by your furnace manufacturer.

 Another thing to remember is the type of furnace air filter you select. Pleated furnace air filters, made of fiberglass or synthetic material, are the most common type. These filters trap dust and other particles in the air, making them ideal for people with allergies or respiratory problems.

 If you have pets, consider a HEPA air filter. You can choose from a variety of HEPA-type air filters to find the most effective furnace air filter that fits your needs. These filters effectively eliminate 99.97% of airborne particles, rendering them perfect for individuals with pets or allergies.

 Summary

It's essential to replace your furnace air filter regularly, preferably every month or as the manufacturer recommends. A clean furnace air filter will help ensure your furnace runs efficiently and keep your home healthy. A dirty furnace filter can cause many problems, from increased energy bills to respiratory issues. So, change your furnace air filter regularly and keep your home happy and healthy.

 As part of a home inspection, our inspectors check to see that the furnace air filter is correctly sized, clean, and serviceable. If not, we recommend maintenance in our inspection reports.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN, area. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Fall Maintenance Checklist

We have beautiful weather this time of year, but winter is coming, so now is the perfect time to take care of those outdoor maintenance items before the snow begins to fly. Taking care of your home, especially the outside stuff before the weather gets cold and miserable, is well worth the time and effort.

 The following are a few maintenance items that the professionals at HomePro Inspections would like you to consider in order to better care for and protect your home for the upcoming winter season.

 Remember, as with everything, know your limits and skill level. If you are uncomfortable performing any of the inspection items on the checklist, especially when it comes to accessing your roof, gutters, or downspouts, please hire a professional.

 Roof

·         Inspect your roof from the ground with binoculars, looking for any damage. Look for any damage to the shingles. Make sure that any tree branches that may be touching the roof are trimmed back. 

·         Clean your gutters and downspouts after the leaves have finished falling from the trees. Even if you have gutter guards, small debris can pile up in the valleys or at the downspouts. Plugged or restricted gutters can lead to ice dams in the winter. Ensure your downspouts and discharge chutes are unobstructed and directed away from the foundation.

 Outdoor Maintenance

·         If you have an irrigation or sprinkler system, you want to have it serviced and drained before the temperatures drop into the freezing range. 

·         Remove your garden hoses. If your faucets cannot drain, they can freeze and burst a pipe. Even frost-free faucets can freeze if the water is not allowed to drain due to frozen water in a garden hose.

·         Remove pumps and drain from any outside water features, such as garden ponds.

·         If you have an unheated garage, drain utility sinks and winterize them.

·         Seal any gaps or cracks on the exterior of your home. Look for areas around your windows and doors, as well as any vents, pipes, or trim.

·         Inspect your window screens. Please remove them and have them repaired and ready for spring.

·         Inspect and replace any damaged or worn weather stripping around doors and windows.

·         Clean your air conditioner coils and replace damaged insulation on your refrigerant line. Air conditioners do not need to be covered. Covers can trap moisture, which can result in rust and corrosion.

 Heating, Exhaust, and Ventilation

·         Clean your home heating system’s fresh air vents and combustion make-up air vents.

·         Clean your dryer vents. If you have any flexible plastic vents, consider replacing the material with solid metal smooth-bore dryer venting.

·         Inspect and clean the vents, filters, and core in your air exchanger system if one is installed.

·         Remove debris, such as hornet and wasp nests, from your kitchen or bathroom exhaust vents, and ensure that the dampers work freely. Do this for all external vents.

·         Have your furnace or boiler professionally maintained. A clean system will operate more efficiently and reliably.

·         If your thermostat has batteries, replace them. If the batteries fail in the middle of the night or while you are away on a winter vacation, your furnace will stop functioning.

·         Replace your furnace filter. Whether it’s a 12-month, 3-month, or 1-month filter, it’s essential to change them on schedule. A plugged filter will keep your furnace from operating efficiently and correctly.

·         If you have a wood or gas fireplace, have it professionally cleaned and maintained. Don’t forget about the chimney or through-wall exhaust venting.

 Interior Maintenance

·         Change the batteries in your smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.

·         Clean your refrigerator and freezer cooling coils.

 Summary

Your home is your most important asset. Maintained and properly functioning home systems will help you manage costs and keep your home looking great. Although the above list is only partially comprehensive, it will give you a great start and some guidance.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the house. If left unchecked, deferred maintenance can turn a relatively simple project into a more serious repair. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Is There a Mold Problem in My Home?

As homeowners and homebuyers become more educated about home ownership, a common question our home inspectors hear during a home inspection is whether or not there’s microbial growth, or, as most people refer to it, mold, in their homes. If you have concerns about mold in your home or think you need mold testing, the professionals at HomePro Inspections have some information for you to consider.

 Should I Get Mold Testing?

As home inspectors, we see a wide variety of mold during our home inspections. Some issues are visually apparent, such as wet basement walls, moisture under kitchen or bathroom cabinets, or an obvious leak. It can also be a smell in a damp basement that alerts the homeowner or home inspector that there may be a mold issue. We’ve also had clients tell us that they have someone in the family who gets stuffed up and has allergic reactions, but only when they’re in the basement.

 Wet Areas and Visual Growth

If you have experienced flooding or discovered an area with leaks or water damage, consider mold testing. Consistently wet areas are prone to reasonably quick mold growth, depending on the conditions. Drying areas within 48 hours can reduce the risk and prevent future mold issues. Vacuum up standing water, pull back carpets, and run fans and dehumidifiers to dry the area as quickly as possible.

 Managing the source of water intrusion is critical. If you have poor roof water runoff management or drainage issues, it's crucial to have them corrected as soon as possible. On occasion, I’ve found situations where a homeowner is using fans and dehumidifiers in a wet basement to deal with the symptoms instead of addressing the root cause of the problem.

 Inadequate Ventilation

There are times when your home inspector points out inadequate ventilation in a basement. This is generally due to a lack of air returns in each room of the basement. It can also occur when the supply vents are closed on purpose because “it gets too cold in the basement when the air conditioning is running.”

 Since cold air is denser than warm air, it wants to seek out the lowest area. Lack of ventilation and air exchange can lead to higher than recommended humidity levels. There have been times, when performing a home inspection, when one of our home inspectors has entered a basement where it’s cold, damp, and exudes a musty smell. These conditions immediately alert the home inspector to the potential signs of microbial growth.

 The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that the humidity levels in a home be kept in the 30% to 60% range to prevent possible mold growth.

 Health Concerns

Mold in a house may or may not cause health issues for everyone. I once had a home inspector on my team that didn’t need to conduct mold testing if he was doing a home inspection on a home that had mold in it. On one occasion, when I was training him, we entered a home, and within 5 minutes, he had watery, itchy eyes and was sneezing. I asked him if he was okay, and he said mold was probably in the home. Sure enough, we went to the basement, and there were signs of active mold growth on the basement utility room walls. I, on the other hand, did not react to the conditions. 

 How Much Exposure is Too Much?

Exposure to an elevated level of microbial growth or mold spores affects everyone differently. People with compromised immune systems, the elderly, the very young, and those with allergies can be prone to issues when exposed to mold. Symptoms can include watery eyes, runny nose, itching, difficulty breathing, wheezing, coughing, headaches, and fatigue. Continued and repeated exposures to poor indoor air quality can develop into more severe reactions over time. Molds such as Aspergillus and Stachybotrys may produce mycotoxins, which can be toxic to some people under certain conditions, resulting in serious illnesses.

 Summary

When purchasing a new home, people with potential health issues related to mold exposure should have mold testing conducted as part of their home inspection. If you see the warning signs, have flooding or water intrusion, or detect a damp, musty smell in your basement, there may be microbial growth. You’ll want to test for mold to ensure there are no issues.

 Visit our website to learn more or schedule mold testing in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Keeping Your Basement Dry – Gutters and Downspouts

One of the most important yet commonly neglected fixtures on your roof are the gutters and downspouts. Some may question the importance of gutters and downspouts, as well as their maintenance, but HomePro Inspections wants you to know there’s a reason why you should have them on your home. These essential items are critical for managing rain runoff from your roof and keeping your basement dry. Our home inspectors, as part of a home inspection, evaluate the condition and function of the gutters and discharge chutes.

 Gutters and downspouts at the roof edge

 That’s a lot of water!

Did you know that on 1,000 square feet of surface area, one inch of rainfall creates 623 gallons of water? Imagine you have a 32-foot x 34-foot home with a 2-foot eave all around. That’s 1,368 square feet of surface area, and that’s not even considering the pitch of the roof. When a heavy rain drops two inches of rainfall on this roof, that equals about 1,700 gallons of water running off the edge! That’s a lot of water, and it has to go someplace, but where?

 Get that water away from my foundation!

The purpose of gutters, downspouts, and discharge chutes is to collect the water that runs off the roof and divert it away from the foundation. If the water is allowed to run off the roof and saturate the soil next to the foundation, it can lead to a wet basement. An even worse situation is when there are no gutters, downspouts, and discharge chutes, and the ground around the home slopes towards, rather than away from, the foundation. That’s why, except for extremely rare situations, gutters and downspouts are absolutely necessary.

 The photo shows wetness in a basement where the discharge chute had been removed and was lying in the shrubs. The downspout was dumping water right at the foundation’s corner.

 A case in point.

At a recent home inspection, one of our home inspectors noted that the gutters at the rear had some damage and were prone to leakage. In addition, the discharge chute was not extended far enough away from the foundation, and the soil sloped back towards the foundation. Furthermore, the runoff from the driveway was routed around to the rear of the foundation. In the inspection report, the home inspector documented all of this as needing correction.

In the basement, it was noted that there were a couple of areas at the rear of the basement where the carpet and sheetrock were wet. The home inspector also documented this as needing repair and noted they may need to have a basement waterproofing company install a water mitigation system.

 We recommended that they first correct the issues with the gutters and soil slope and then make sure that any water coming from the roof was flowing away from the home.

 Maintain your home’s gutter system.

Keep your gutters clean and discharge chutes in place. If you fail to maintain your system, you’re asking for trouble. Gutters that let water run over the edge are just as harmful as having no gutters at all. Gutters plugged with water and debris are heavy, and that extra weight can pull gutters loose and even cause them to separate and fall from the house entirely.

 Keeping gutters and downspouts clean can be achieved by physically removing the debris yourself or paying someone to clean them for you. For me, the height and pitch of the roof play a big part in whether I would tackle the project myself. You can also install a system that prevents the accumulation of leaves, twigs, and other debris in your gutter system. There are plenty of DIY and professional installations available.

 Conclusion

Having proper gutters, downspouts, and discharge chutes in place is your number one defense against a wet basement. Keep them clean and properly maintained, and they’ll do their job every time it rains. Remember, a one-inch rainfall equals 623 gallons per 1,000 square feet.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. Contact HomePro Inspections today at (507) 202-8942, send us an email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

The Right Way to Upgrade Two-Prong Outlets

When performing a home inspection on an older home, the inspectors at HomePro Inspections often encounter ungrounded two-prong outlet receptacles or ungrounded three-prong outlet receptacles. If it's a two-prong outlet, we will usually discuss with our client that it is ungrounded. If we find a three-prong outlet that is ungrounded (does not have a ground wire), we mark this as a defect needing correction.

Two-prong and 3-prong outlets

 Code changes

The National Electrical Code (NEC) has continuously reviewed the evolution of electrical development and installation to establish safety standards since the publication of the first edition of codes in 1897. An update to the code in 1947 required that circuits supplying electricity to laundry appliances had to be grounded. In 1956, an additional code change mandated that grounding was required for basements, porches, and other exterior areas where the potential for ground contact was likely. Requirements for the grounding of kitchen sink receptacles were added in 1959, and in 1962, a code update mandated the grounding of all outlets. Since then, codes have continued to evolve, and the safety of our home’s electrical systems has improved dramatically.

 Older Homes

We have many older homes here in Southeast Minnesota, and most of these homes have the older two-wire systems, where one wire is hot (ungrounded) and the other is common (grounded). The hot wire brings electricity to the electrical appliance or device, and the neutral wire returns electricity to the electrical panel. 

 Older homes will have two-prong outlets, which only have the hot and the neutral wire. Back in the mid- to late-60s, when appliances started providing chords with three-prongs, it was common for people to swap out their old two-pronged outlets with three-prong outlets.

 This was a quick and easy fix; however, it was an unsafe fix. The problem is that even though it looks like a grounded three-prong outlet, there is no ground wire in these old homes. The house I grew up in had two-prong outlets. I remember that around 1970, when my dad was doing some remodeling, we went through and installed three-prong outlets everywhere in the house. He was tired of having to find a “cheater” every time he wanted to plug in an appliance with a three-prong cord into a two-prong outlet.

 “Cheater plug”

 The Ground Wire

What exactly is a ground wire? The ground wire is used to ‘bond’ all metal non-current-carrying components back to the main panel. If a ground fault occurs, this wire will direct or carry the electrical flow back to the main panel, allowing a fuse to break or a circuit breaker to trip. An ungrounded outlet has no path back to the panel and may result in an electrical shock.

 How do you upgrade a two-prong outlet to a three-prong outlet?

As we have seen in many older homes, people simply replaced the old two-prong outlet with a new three-prong outlet. However, addressing the lack of a ground wire to the third prong requires further attention.

 One option is to completely rewire the house, removing the older two-wire system and replacing it with a new three-wire system. Unless you're doing a complete remodel of the house, however, this is an extremely expensive and cost-prohibitive task.

 The National Electrical Code provides more cost-effective options for replacing old two-prong outlets other than rewiring or running a separate ground.

 2017 Code Language:

406.4(D)(2) Non–Grounding-Type Receptacles. Where attachment to an equipment grounding conductor does not exist in the receptacle enclosure, the installation shall comply with (D)(2)(a), (D)(2)(b), or (D)(2)(c).

 (a) A non-grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with another non-grounding-type receptacle(s).

 (b) A non-grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a ground-fault circuit interrupter-type of receptacle(s). These receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked “No Equipment Ground.” An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter-type receptacle to any outlet supplied from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter receptacle.

 (c) A non-grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a grounding-type receptacle(s) where supplied through a ground-fault circuit interrupter. Where grounding-type receptacles are supplied through the ground-fault circuit interrupter, grounding-type receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground,” visible after installation. An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected between the grounding-type receptacles.

 Informational Note No. 1: Some equipment or appliance manufacturers require that the branch circuit to the equipment or appliance includes an equipment grounding conductor.

 Informational Note No. 2: See 250.114 for a list of cord-and-plug-connected equipment or appliances that require an equipment grounding conductor.

 Evaluating Your Options

Option A states that you can replace your old 2-prong outlets with new 2-prong outlets. This does not add additional protection or functionality to your electrical system, but the new outlets will look, well, new.

 Options B and C are very similar, and they add GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) protection to those circuits.

Basically, if there is GFCI protection on those circuits, the NEC permits upgrading old two-prong outlets to three-prong outlets without adding a ground wire and by appropriately labeling those circuits as "GFCI Protected" and "No Equipment Ground."

Summary

The ground wire is the most critical safety feature of your home’s electrical system, but there are code-approved options if you want to upgrade your old two-prong outlets to three-prong outlets. We recommend that you contact a reputable licensed electrician for options on how to make these upgrades. In the end, you want your home and family to be safe.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. Contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Is It Time to Upgrade Your Home's Thermostat?

Home thermostats have become more technologically advanced than they were a few years ago. Growing up, everyone had the little round Honeywell thermostat in their home. This simple little mechanical device that relied strictly on a mercury switch is ancient compared to the advanced, programmable smart thermostats available today. HomePro Inspections would like to share the advantages of today’s plethora of smart technology that you can use to manage the efficiency of your home’s heating and cooling systems, as well as the cost-saving benefits they offer.

 A home thermostat with intelligent technology

 I recently had a new furnace and heat pump combination installed in my home. I figured my Nest thermostat would handle the new system, but the technician said that even though Nest states that it will run a system with a heat pump, they're typically problematic. With that in mind, I had a new thermostat installed that matched up with the new system. 

 Much like my Nest thermostat, the new one is Wi-Fi capable and can tie into my home monitoring system. In addition to controlling heating and cooling, it also has the function of running the humidifier. This is nice because I don't have to mess with two separate control units to keep the humidity under control in the wintertime.

 Upgrading to a smart thermostat is a minor change that can provide many benefits, including energy efficiency, reduced heating and cooling costs, and increased comfort in your home. The following are some considerations regarding whether or not you should update your home’s thermostat.

 Convenience

You can control smart thermostats either at the control panel or remotely using your smartphone. This makes it possible to control your home’s temperature, no matter where you are. Using the thermostat app, you can adjust your home's temperature when you are away. The primary reason for this convenience is also to provide a consistently comfortable environment in your home.

 It is also important that I can monitor my home’s temperature when I am traveling and make adjustments according to changes in the weather.

 Efficiency

The potential to increase the energy efficiency of heating and cooling your home is one of the most compelling reasons to upgrade a thermostat. The old mercury switch-style thermostats do not have the technology to efficiently keep temperatures stable. They tend to lag and overshoot their set points. Programmable thermostats allow you to program and customize your heating and cooling based on your family's lifestyle. These newer thermostats can also monitor and learn your habits, thus increasing efficiency.

 With energy efficiency comes cost savings. Optimizing your heating and cooling schedules can greatly reduce your energy consumption and save you money. Energy-efficient thermostats have the potential to save you between 10% and 15% on your heating and cooling costs. Reducing your energy usage also has a huge impact on our environment.

 Summary

With the technology available, you can positively impact the environment, save money on your heating and cooling costs, and make your home energy efficient and more comfortable for you and your family. The money you save by installing a new thermostat will outweigh the initial cost of upgrading.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. Contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

What Does “At or Near End of Its Lifespan” Mean?

Occasionally, during a home inspection, the inspectors at HomePro Inspections come across something that, despite being functional, is at or near the end of its lifespan. So, precisely what does that mean? How do we explain it, and what should a homebuyer do with that information?

 A furnace near the end of its lifespan

 What does “end of lifespan mean”?

Our standard of practice requires us to report on things near the end of their service life. Various home inspectors may say it differently, but it means the same thing. Everything in a home has a life expectancy. Nothing lasts forever. We commonly use this phrase when it comes to appliances such as heating systems, water heaters, air conditioners, or roofing and exterior components.

 I wrote a blog post in December 2023 discussing standard life expectancies. That blog shares a chart from internachi.org that shows almost every component of your home, as well as the average standard life expectancy.

 Over the years, as a homeowner, I've replaced roofs that had 30-year shingles that only lasted 19 years and “new” furnaces in as little as eleven years. And then there’s the opposite: I recently purchased a property that has a furnace and air conditioner that are 25 years old. They’re well past their life expectancy, but they’re still working just fine.

 About 10 to 15 years ago, I inspected a home built in 1953. It still had the original furnace. This was a pre-listing home inspection for an estate sale, and the daughter told me that her father was an engineer and took great pride in keeping that furnace running all those years. Although it was running quite well, it was probably only about 10% efficient. The daughter informed me that they planned to replace it with a new system. 

 How do I use this information?

If your home inspector documents that some component of your home is at the end of its lifespan, they are making that comment based on standard average life expectancies. This statement contains information that you can use when making a decision about your home. This is not an action item that necessitates replacement.

 A good example would be an older water heater. I might document that it was near the end of its lifespan, but I would also explain to the client that it's not leaking, it's not rusty, it has a nice flame, and the burn chamber is not all corroded. Knowing that it is old, I would start to budget for its replacement sometime down the road.

 Should you use this information in your negotiations?

It would be best if you discussed this with your real estate professional. It's probably not a good idea to ask for something to be replaced simply because it's old. If you're buying an older home, there will be a wide range of components that are at various stages of life. Your best bet is to buy a home warranty for your new home. If something breaks or fails during the policy period, it may be eligible for a complete replacement.

 Summary

We want you to understand that home inspectors lack the ability to predict how long a given appliance or component may continue to perform its function. That’s why we carefully inspect your home, and if something is “at or near end of its lifespan,” we make a note so you have the information you need to make future decisions.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.