Rochester Mn Home Inspector Recommends Carbon Monixide Detectors

What is Carbon Monoxide and why do I need a Carbon Monoxide Detector? Yes, Carbon monoxide (CO) is an odorless, colorless and potentially dangerous gas produced when fuel burns without enough air for complete combustion. Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning include fatigue, headache, dizziness, nausea, coughing, irregular breathing, paleness and cherry red lips and ears. If symptoms are noticed, it is advised that you immediately open windows and doors to ventilate the home or structure, call 911 and get outside into fresh air. Later, have appliances checked carefully by a qualified heating contractor.

When doing a home inspecion I look for, and note whether there are Carbon Monoxide and smoke detectors in all applicable locations. Make sure you install a carbon monoxide detector on each level of your home and within 10 feet of sleeping areas, in rooms over or near a garage, in the basement or other isolated area, and in rooms where space heaters are used. Detectors that have been verified by Underwriters Laboratory (UL) and have been manufactured after October 1995 conform to minimum alarm requirements. Those marked UL 2034 or IAS 6-96 have met the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission guidelines. Follow the directions for installing and using the detector carefully.

To help prevent carbon monoxide poisoning:  Your chimney and flue should be checked and cleaned every year. Have a qualified inspector check appliances and heating systems each year.  Make sure all home appliances have adequate ventilation. Carbon Monoxide detectors should not be relied upon as a substitute maintaining appliances, furnaces or chimneys. The flames in appliances and heating systems burners should be blue, not orange. Never use a gas range as a space heater. Never run an automobile or gasoline engine in an enclosed space.  Charcoal grills should never be used indoors indoors.

Rochester MN Home Inspection Company Shares Sump Pump Basics

Sump Pump

The sump pump protects your home from groundwater forcing its way down through the soil into that hole in the ground we call a basement. A drain tile system below the basement floor will channel water into the sump pump basket.  When the water level hits the float in the sump basket, the sump pump lifts this water to the surface outside or into an underground storm sewer pipe that drains away from your home.

The sump pump and drainage system is separate from the sanitary sewer system that drains waste water from your home to the septic system or to a sanitary sewer treatment plant.  Your sump pump should not discharge to the sanitary sewer.

During the home inspection, a home inspector will look for indication of water in the sump basket, and will test that the sump pump operates.  Test your sump pump every few months. Start the pump by adding water to the sump basket or by lifting the float. The pump should start when the water is 8 to 12 inches below the basement floor slab. The water in the sump basket should be clear, without roots or debris. Watch to be sure the pump removes water from the crock.

The pump may have a float on the end of a rod or wire. Be sure the float operates easily and can't rub against the sump basket or the cover. If the float sticks, the pump will not run, and your basement could have some flooding.

If the pump is older and worn, rusty, or noisy, it should be replaced. The pump should be securely mounted in the sump basket. The power supply should be from an outlet, not an extension cord, and the plug should be securely fastened to the outlet.

If the pump runs more than several times per day or runs often during heavy rain, you should have a spare pump or even a second pump mounted in the sump basket. The second pump could have a float set for a higher water level so that the second pump only runs if the first pump fails. If you live in an area in Southeastern MN where the electrical power fails during storms, I would consider a battery backup for the pump system.

You might also want to consider installing an alarm that will alert you if the sump pump fails. This could save considerable damage from flooding that could result from this failure. Options range from expensive home alarm systems to a simple battery-operated water alarm. You can pick up a water alarm at your locat building supply center.

The Water Detector is a palm-sized unit operated by a 9-volt battery. When in contact with water, it continuously emits an alarm for up to 72 hours. The unit will float and continue to sound an alarm during a flood.

Home Inspection Sniffs Out Burning Odor From Electrical Fixture

If a light fixture gives off a burning smell, disconnect the fixture until you have determined the source of the odor.

Overheating electrical wires and devices often emit a burning smell. Don't use the fixture again until a professional has inspected and repaired it. A fluorescent fixture may have a ballast that has failed and is spilling tar. For typical incandescent light fixtures, the burning smell may occur if you're using an oversized bulb. Check the rating of the fixture and the wattage of the bulb. The rating will be inside the fixture, near the bulb. Never exceed the wattage recommended.

You might also have a loose electrical connection at the splice or in the outlet box, or a loose screw or lamp base. A loose connection can create excessive resistance to electrical flow, and the resistance causes heat. Excessive heat makes metal connections expand and contract, loosening them further. This heat can damage insulation and even start a fire. Sometimes, when such excessive heat melts plastic, the problem area emits a misleading "dead animal" smell.

If you notice any strong smells near outlets, electrical boxes, or light fixtures, they may be due to an electrical problem. Call an electrician to evaluate and fix the problem. In the meantime, do not use electrical power in that area.

Rochester MN Home Inspection Company Discusses Air Conditioner Start Up

Central Air Conditioning should never be operated in cold weather. This can cause serious damage to the compressor unit. You should not use your central air conditioner unless the outdoor temperature has been above 65 degrees for at least 24 hours.

Remember to uncover the unit if it has been covered over the winter months. At the start of the cooling season, when you are about to start using the air conditioning unit, you need to make sure that the power is on for a minimum of 24 hours.

The thermostat should be switched off, and left off for at least 24 hours before operating the Air Conditioning Unit.

Most condensing units have a compressor crank case heater that allows a heater to warm the crank case lubricant. When the compressor crank case is cold, the coolant can be partially absorbed into the lubricant. This will result in frothing of the lubricant, and can cause undue wear on bearings, etc. Turning on power to the unit at least 24 hours before use will allow for the crank case lubricant to heat up and will release any coolant absorption from the lubricant.

After a minimum of 24 hours, the unit can be run safely. so, the net is... Just make sure that the power to the air conditioning unit is on at least 24 hours prior to using the air conditioning.